Part of a quality day with Lefroy. Originally planned to traverse to the north summit and down the glacier, but that looked sketchy and miserable, so I went back down the death trap. Trip report.
From abbot hut (great place to bivy!) we made it to the ridge and weather was crappy. After much debate we erred on the conservative side and turned around. Fun scramble up to the ridge, would like to return and finish it.
Victoria South and Huber from Abbot Pass Hut with Vern Dewit, Vern's first 11,000'er (Huber became 2nd) .
The Abbot Hut is just great, had the place almost to ourselves (with the exception of the little furry critters in the walls :-) that kept us up most of the night. Got within about an hour of the summit but had to turn back. Tons of snow on the route, wore crampons all way with the exception of the rock wall right outside of the hut. The snow was very soft and lots of cornices. The sicle was a non-event because it was so covered with snow it was just a snow ridge to cross. But just before the sicle, what should have been quick a crossing of some rocks turned out to be a bit of a challenge because everything was covered with ice. But, it was a super day, fantastic views! Ok, the way down the scree from the hut was a bit more of an adventure than I expected :-)
An amazing route.We had really nice weather and the rock/ice was in perfect condition.
Climbed Victoria in a day from Lake Louise via the Furhmann ledges. The ridge had just gotten 30cm of fresh snow which we had to wade through. Slowed things down especially since the snow became very unconsolidated as the day wore on and we were climbing rock underneath all the slush. By staying on the ridge, we were able to stay clear of avy danger. Small snow sloughs originating from our steps were point releasing class 2 avalanches on the E face. Not a slope to cut in warm, snowy conditions. Otherwise fantastic ridge!
We got a big snowstorm just as we started heading up. Ended up sleeping at the Abbot hut. Had the place to ourselves. This is my favorite hike. The place is pristine. Photographed some large tracks in the snow. I'm pretty sure they were Mt.Lion tracks. My husband wants to try it again, but I might chicken out! ha ha don't tell him that!
Gorgeous climb. Didn't even sleep the night before. Dry class III rock, no snow until you crest the ridge. Rope was helpful: slightly icy near sickle, snow on the E face was starting to run by noon. One of Rockies' best.
Successful South summit from the Abbot pass hut. Weather cooperated. Conditions good early in the morning. Long tiring day due to lack of sleep the previous night.
Very dry. Only needed crampons for a short section of ridge (around the sicle). What fun -- a few challenging sections due to lack of snow.
No summit this time but got to within 1 hour of the actual south summit. Turned back due to slippery conditions and the constant snow and cloud cover. I am happy with my decision as the down climb was a bit hairy and I was on my own, uncertain of the correct route and visability was limited. I will return and complete it when conditions are better. Abbot pass hut is great. All the best to Jaye, Ben and Tim. Cheers William