Hope also that the bug that seems to be affecting submissions at the moment doesn't adversely affect the "what's new" page exposure that this superbly written TR so richly deserves.
One of the best pieces of pure writing on SP to date. Can't wait for the pictures. But 10/10 just for the lovely pithy style.
Great writing. Not too much detail about the route itself, but great detail about the specifics you encountered on your climb (newspaper article in the hut, sharp crampons coming down at you in the fixed section, beer as energy booster, etc) Good stuff.
Thanks Edevart! I think specifics of the route just didn't have time to soak into me, because of the hurry, both self-imposed and from being in a big line of people in some places below the Solvay Hut. Just think endless snowy, exposed rock scrambling in crampons :). I couldn't imagine it in really bad weather, that would be extremely grim.
As always, it was an enjoyable read. I have always been a fan of your gentle humor and self deprecating style. Unfortunately no one will realize what a bad ass in real life you are!
Congratulations on summiting. I love the report: well written and great pictures. Is there a lot of mixed or ice climbing or is it mostly mountaineering skills? Either way it sounds like a stellar peak. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely. Yeah, I was sparse on actual climbing details (didn't even realize it until someone mentioned it above). It's rock scrambling plus lots and lots of "mixed" in the old sense of the term: mixed snow and rock climbing, endless 4th class to 5.5 YDS kind of stuff. There is plenty of in situ protection, but you need to keep the route and keep your vigilance up for the long way down.
Nice write up. I loved the details and the flow of the writing. The photos are incredible. What views. I'm over here in the U.S. just salivating to someday see those magnificent mountains. Thanks for the motivation and inspiration to do so.
Congratulations for your ascent in that snowy conditions. About the lady in the hut: I talked in English she talked me Spanish, she insisted to talk its other in my language, so I said: Ok, lets talk in Greek... Multi-language show-off?
Nice pics also...
for another nice tr. The picures (also on flickr) make me wanna be not at work but on that mountain instead... Your way of writing about things, for example about crowds and guides on Matterhorn, always seems very observative and less judging/opinionated (is that a word in English?) than what I sometimes hear or read about 'mountains'. Which is one of the reasons I like reading things you write. Keep it up and happy climbing!
Thanks Myles. I really had to overcome negative feelings, and I had to do it before setting foot on the mountain. That crazy view on the meadow hike did it for me: like a splash of cold, refreshing water - I knew it would be...Worth It.
vancouver islander - Oct 7, 2008 12:30 am - Voted 10/10
Voting early ........hope you don't mind.
Hope also that the bug that seems to be affecting submissions at the moment doesn't adversely affect the "what's new" page exposure that this superbly written TR so richly deserves.
One of the best pieces of pure writing on SP to date. Can't wait for the pictures. But 10/10 just for the lovely pithy style.
Climb on.........
Cheers,
Martin
mvs - Oct 7, 2008 8:50 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Voting early ....Hey, thanks so much, Martin, your comment makes my day!
I'll get the pictures up tonight.
edevart - Oct 8, 2008 7:16 pm - Voted 10/10
Great Write Up.Great writing. Not too much detail about the route itself, but great detail about the specifics you encountered on your climb (newspaper article in the hut, sharp crampons coming down at you in the fixed section, beer as energy booster, etc) Good stuff.
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 7:30 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great Write Up.Thanks Edevart! I think specifics of the route just didn't have time to soak into me, because of the hurry, both self-imposed and from being in a big line of people in some places below the Solvay Hut. Just think endless snowy, exposed rock scrambling in crampons :). I couldn't imagine it in really bad weather, that would be extremely grim.
ExcitableBoy - Oct 8, 2008 7:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Enjoyable readHey MVS,
As always, it was an enjoyable read. I have always been a fan of your gentle humor and self deprecating style. Unfortunately no one will realize what a bad ass in real life you are!
EB
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 7:22 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Enjoyable readReally appreciate it EB! Would love to see you out here. Week long hike/climb?
Woodie Hopper - Oct 8, 2008 11:44 pm - Voted 10/10
GreatTR- I really enjoyed it. Thanks for posting it.
Woodie
mvs - Oct 10, 2008 11:44 am - Hasn't voted
Re: GreatThanks Woodie, no problem!
woodsxc - Oct 9, 2008 12:19 am - Voted 10/10
AwesomeCongratulations on summiting. I love the report: well written and great pictures. Is there a lot of mixed or ice climbing or is it mostly mountaineering skills? Either way it sounds like a stellar peak. Thanks for sharing.
Woodsxc
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 7:28 am - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeAbsolutely. Yeah, I was sparse on actual climbing details (didn't even realize it until someone mentioned it above). It's rock scrambling plus lots and lots of "mixed" in the old sense of the term: mixed snow and rock climbing, endless 4th class to 5.5 YDS kind of stuff. There is plenty of in situ protection, but you need to keep the route and keep your vigilance up for the long way down.
marauders - Oct 9, 2008 1:13 am - Voted 10/10
Loved it.Nice write up. I loved the details and the flow of the writing. The photos are incredible. What views. I'm over here in the U.S. just salivating to someday see those magnificent mountains. Thanks for the motivation and inspiration to do so.
Cy Kaicener - Oct 9, 2008 6:25 am - Voted 10/10
AwesomeI enjoyed your well written and well illustrated trip report.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 7:31 am - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeAlways, Cy! Keep up finding the climbing gems in the net!
teochristopoulos - Oct 9, 2008 6:38 am - Voted 10/10
Nice TR....Congratulations for your ascent in that snowy conditions. About the lady in the hut: I talked in English she talked me Spanish, she insisted to talk its other in my language, so I said: Ok, lets talk in Greek... Multi-language show-off?
Nice pics also...
Koen - Oct 9, 2008 7:08 am - Voted 10/10
thanksfor another nice tr. The picures (also on flickr) make me wanna be not at work but on that mountain instead... Your way of writing about things, for example about crowds and guides on Matterhorn, always seems very observative and less judging/opinionated (is that a word in English?) than what I sometimes hear or read about 'mountains'. Which is one of the reasons I like reading things you write. Keep it up and happy climbing!
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 7:25 am - Hasn't voted
Re: thanksThanks Koen, that is a nice observation. I realize that on some levels this whole pursuit is silly, so I can't get too angry at anything!
BobSmith - Oct 9, 2008 7:30 am - Voted 10/10
Excellent post!I enjoy reading about these peaks I'll probably never see, and will never climb. The photographs were exceptional.
musicman82 - Oct 9, 2008 10:07 am - Voted 10/10
Well doneVery fascinating read that has my morning off to a great start - thank you!
myles - Oct 9, 2008 11:09 am - Voted 10/10
Great readThanks for posting this. I loved your "ambivalence" about the mountain. Well done for carrying on despite the negative comments of going guideless!
mvs - Oct 9, 2008 12:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great readThanks Myles. I really had to overcome negative feelings, and I had to do it before setting foot on the mountain. That crazy view on the meadow hike did it for me: like a splash of cold, refreshing water - I knew it would be...Worth It.