My Only Valentine

The 5th pitch of Broken Hearts, WI5, 45m. Instead of the usual cone, the first third of the pitch ascended a forest of mushrooms (early March, 2008), which required a series of overhanging ice bouldering moves to surmount. Good rests and pro, though. The rest of the climb was steep and technical with bullet ice exit moves to pull the lip. I placed 11 screws (a personal record!) and wouldn't have minded one more to protect the exit if I'd had it. Photo by Keith.