N face of W ridge

The N face of Forbidden's West ridge seldom sees boots. The NW Face route (Beckey/Cooper, 1959) ascends the second rib shown here, starting from the far side. Our party looked at the possibility of a more direct start, from this side of the base, but it was a waste of time for people of 5.7-5.8 caliber. We had to drop low to avoid crevasses, then climb fairly high beside the W side of the rib to the obvious place to traverse onto the rock, as the original party did. The glacier required a bit of navigating, but offered no difficulties, and rib itself was very enjoyable and very exposed. The long approach from camp in Boston Basin, over the E and N ridges, makes for a looong day, all of it spectacular and challenging. Descend the W Ridge route. Another (NW Face of W Ridge, Gordon/Harrah/Sturdevant, 1954) climbs the basin just beyond to the rib to top out at the little snow saddle at the top of this photo.

Photo from the N ridge route, July, 1985.