Nangpai Gosum I

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Khumbu, Nepal, Asia
24117 ft / 7351 m
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Nangpai Gosum I
Created On: Nov 20, 2004
Last Edited On: May 1, 2005


Also known as Jasamba. Official Nepali name is "Pasang Lhamu", after the first Sherpani to summit Everest.

A few kilometers west of Cho Oyu lies Nangpai Gosum, a big mountain with 3 separate summits.

In the middle of October 2004 a Slovenian expedition made the first ascent of Nangapi Gosum I (7351 ) from the SE (Nepal side). Until this expedition there had been just two other ascents of this, the highest peak of the Nangpai Gosum massif. The first ascent was made by a Japanese expedition in 1986 on the NW ridge starting from Tibet and in 1996 when an international expedition completed the integral NW ridge from a start on Nangpa La.

Getting There

To get to Nepal you will have to fly from either India, Thailand or Singapore.

To get to New Delhi India try (there are many others).
Air India
British Airways
Air France
Air Canada
Kuwait Airlines

Once you get to Kathmandu you will have basically two options:
1 - Fly on Royal Air Nepal's Twin Otter flights to Lukla. A small air strip about ten days from Everest Base Camp (eight from Gokyo peak allowing for acclimitization) 1 hour flight approx.
2 - Take a local bus, Mini Bus hired by you or your Sherpa provider to Jiri. This is a small village at the end of the road. From here it is about a 14-16 day trek to the Kumbu region.

If you have the time, do the walk. This is a good idea for three reasons:
1 - You will have a chance to walk through one of the most lush and beautiful lowland areas in Nepal. This is an area that a lot of trekkers miss when flying to Lukla. You will also cross over two high passes with excellent views in all directions.
2 - By taking 2 weeks and crossing two high passes to arrive in the Khumbu area, you will be better acclimatized once you arrive in the high peaks area. This will help reduce the chances of a bout with Acute Mountain Sickness, or worse yet, high altitude pulmonary edema or cerebral edema.
3 - You will be following the route taken by most of the early expeditions. There is a lot of history along that path, so why not soak it up.

Flying is fast and that has its advantages. But if you have ever been at Lukla after several day s of no flights after bad weather you will understand this. (Trekkers fighting over seats to make their connecting flights home)

Note on recent bus cancellation to Juri
Author: vito corleone
Date: May 19, 2004 05:08 AM
At the moment it is not possible to take the bus to Jiri. There are no busses going to the east of Nepal from Kathmandu because maoists shot at a public bus and killed several people, including civilists. After that, all the bus services were suspended. Nobody knows when the busses will be going again. If you really want to go to Jiri dispite of the worsening security situation (probably not a good idea) you have to hire a car.
Nepal News story

Still, there are no problems with maoists above Lukla.

Flying into Lukla 9,350 ft.:
(Note walking times are approximate a lot will depend on how you acclimitize.)
Slowly descend to Phakding 8,700 ft. about 2 hr walk from Lukla, you will probably overnight here .

The next morning after about 2-3 hours you will pass through Jorsale 9,100 ft. . Here is where you will pay a fee and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Parkl. You will then continue for another 2-3 hours uphill to the main village of Namche Bazaar 11,300 ft. This is quite an elevation gain, especially for those who have just flown in. You should rest here one to two days, doing small side trips ect. to acclimatize.

Instead of following the crowd towards Everest head east out of Namche towards Thame, then to Arye- base camp on the Sumna glacier.

Red Tape

$3000 summit permit. This and the other paperwork can be arranged by either yourself or a commercial operator. Nepal also requires an entry visa.

The General Secretary
Nepal Mountaineering Association
Post Box No. 1435,

If you are not able to mount an Official Expedition the following guide services are recommended:

  • Alpine Ascents International
  • Adventure Consultants
  • Himalaya Expeditions
  • Earth Treks
  • Jagged Globe
  • Mountain-Link Expeditions
  • Mountain Madness

    When To Climb

    Pre-Monsoon: March through May
    Post-Monsoon: October and November

    Avoiding altitude sickness

    You should be prepared for the possible onset of altitude sickness. High altitudes are stressful on the body, and lack of oxygen up high can produce slightly debilitating effects, such as fatigue, headaches, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, and a drunken gait. Altitude sickness generally doesn’t occur below 10,000 feet, but people have suffered its symptoms lower than 8,000 feet.

    There’s not much you can do to prevent this problem, but there are ways of alleviating its effects. The key to doing this is simple: take it easy. Take a day or two before beginning the walk in to acclimatize yourself to the elevation. Go at your own pace, and don’t take chances. Even if you’re in excellent shape, don’t be fooled. The lack of oxygen at such high altitudes can definitely throw your lungs for a loop. Walk at a comfortable, slow pace and don’t carry too much weight. Make sure to hydrate yourself regularly, drinking 4 to 5 liters (nalgene bottles) of water per day; On some climbs camelbacks can be mountain companions because of their convenient water portability. The only problem being keeping the nozzle clean, I find they can get gross and need constant cleaning. My self I attach a 1 litre Nalgene bottle to each side of my backpack so that I can reach them easily without removing my pack. These solutions would have to be modified to suit the weather and conditions of climbing Kongde-Ri. Bottles would have to be insulated and the tube from the camelback could tend to freeze up. Taking antioxidant vitamins (A, C, and E) also helps reduce the effects of high altitudes. Of course working out before you go is another great preventative measure. While this doesn’t guarantee an easier time when up high, it can enhance your lungs’ ability to cope with the challenges of high elevations.

    Try to spread out your ascent over a period of two or three days to give your body more time to adapt. Play by the “climb-high, sleep-low” theory of ascent: go on a short hike to a higher elevation, then return to the (lower) elevation at which you’ll sleep.

    Physical fitness, as mentioned above, is no guarantee against developing altitude sickness. Past excursions to high elevations without developing symptoms is similarly no guarantee against getting sick. There’s no way to predict who is more susceptible to altitude sickness, although climbers who overexert themselves, those who are panting or breathless, and those who stagger far behind the rest of the group are likely candidates.

    Surefire signs of impending illness include extreme fatigue, headache,
    loss of appetite, and shortness of breath. If you experience any of these symptoms, the best thing to do is take a break from climbing for a couple days to acclimatize. Once the symptoms disappear, it’s safe for you to continue. If the symptoms persist or get worse, you should descend to a lower elevation.

    More serious levels of the illness include increasing tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, and loss of coordination, and are indicative of acute mountain sickness (AMS). If such symptoms appear, don’t hesitate to get immediate medical attention. If serious symptoms go ignored for more than 12 hours, they could have dire--even fatal--effects, such as accumulation of fluid in the lungs or brain. The most important symptom of AMS is loss of coordination. If someone staggers or walks in a drunken gait, check them out for further signs of AMS. A good test is, essentially, the police’s test for drunkenness--ask the person to walk in a straight line, placing one foot directly in front of the other without staggering or losing balance. If the person cannot perform, he or she should descend immediately--and never alone. Go slowly and without exertion, and ideally while it’s light outside. Descend should continue until symptoms begin to decrease; relief usually occurs within 1,000 to 1,500 feet.

    There are prescription drugs out there that you can take for severe symptoms. One of the most common is called Diamox; it works by stimulating your breathing. Diamox is a strong medication and has some slight side effects, such as an annoying tingling in the fingers and toes. You will urinate more frequently so getting out of the tent at night in a storm could be a problem (if you don’t use a pee bottle). This will also necessitate you dringing more fluids to compensate. If you take too much I have seen people get very ill. I avoid taking it if if I can.

    Helping the sherpa community

    There are several organizations dedicated to helping the Sherpa community. Here are just two. Should you wish to contribute to this worthwhile cause contact either of the following organizations though the information below.

    The Sir Edmond Hillary Foundation
    The Sir Edmond Hillary Foundation
    222 Jarvis Street
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    M5B 2B8
    (416) 941-3315

    The American Himalayan Foundation
    The American Himalayan Foundation
    909 Montgomery Street, suite 400
    San Francisco CA 94133
    Telephone (415) 288-7245
    Fax (415) 434-3130

    Partial gear list

    Partial Equipment list info:
    Here is a brief incomplete list for you. Minus the Climbing gear
  • 6-pairs socks
  • 6-underwear
  • 2-pairs of shorts for the walk in
  • 3-T-shirts for the walk in
  • 2-bandanas or a sun hat to keep off the sun
  • Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen plus zinc
  • Good sturdy hiking shoes
  • 1-sleeping bag (as warm as you can get)
  • 1-sleeping pad (your choice the more comfortable you are the better you sleep the more energy you will have) you can get a Crazy Creek chair that goes with your pad this is a good investment.
  • 2-expedition weight Patagonia long underwear tops (or 1 depends on how dirty you like to be)
  • 1-expedition weight Patagonia long underwear bottom
  • 1 lightweight fleece bottom
  • 1-heavy weight Patagonia or similar fleece jacket
  • 1-Gortex shell jacket
  • 1-Gortex shell pants (full length zippers)
  • 1-Down filled jacket liner from Feathered Friends of Seattle, (optional but I always end up using it)
  • 1-Downfilled Gortex guides Parka 1-Warm hat with ear flaps
  • 2-pairs of heavy duty mittens (in case you lose one pair up high)
  • 1-pair fleece gloves 1-pair ski gloves
  • 1-pair of Koflach double plastic boots, One Sport (warmer)($$$) or Asolo (I prefer Koflach, I find them more comfortable)
  • 1-pair of gaitors
  • 1-pair ski poles
  • 1-ice axe
  • 1-pair of sharp crampons (test them on your boots before you leave and make sure they fit perfectly)
  • 1-headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • 1-cup with spoon attached
  • 1-Swissarmy knife
  • 1- stove of your choice (I use Markhill stormy hanging stone with Blueway cartridges, you will have to get fuel in Nepal as it is difficult to fly over) Allow at least 1 canister per day for up high per 2-man tent.
  • 1-4 tents one set up at base camp. one at camp 1, and another 2 for higher up.
    3-1-litre waterbottles with insulators (drink at LEAST 5 litres a day to help acclimatize)

    Political situation

    Note on Nepal. There has been a cease fire called and talks are set to take place the 2nd week of March 2005. Over the past several years over 7,000 Nepalese have lost their lives to violence including locals, communist rebels, police and military. Visitors should be warned that they may be approached by bandits and taxed. Your Guides or Sherpas will inform you on where and where not to go in Nepal. Even the school courriers that run betwwen Lukla and the school in Khundi (run by the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation) have been stopped and robbed. It is not sure how the Annapruna region is being effected. Let us all hope that this terrible situation clears itself up soon. So that locals and climbers can all enjoy this wonderful place in peace.

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