NE Ridge Route

Click to expand this picture to original size to view the route in detail; the dark blue line gives the "walking" route, and the light blue dots are raps. The first ramp is regarded as the class 4 crux by DPS, but some may find the "aid off tree" creepier, since one has to climb a steeper, oft-sand-covered wall with exposure. One can belay from a tree just above the "aid off tree" section, or from the 1st rap tree. This view is from the NE, along the top of the shoulder.

Neither rap is really necessary, but Rap1 (upper) avoids the exposed aid-off-tree section, which is often sandy and slippery. If you downclimb the north side of rap2,along the gully down to the ledge, it is more like Red Rock (NV) class 3, with unforgiving exposure.

With 120' of rope, you will be able to double-strand Rap2 to the ledge. I think it is a fairly easy downclimb from that ledge, but I've been told that 150' is preferable, as it will get you all the way down to easy ground. In the 3 times I've gone to NGA, I either used 0' of rope, or 120' of 9 mm.


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Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - May 3, 2012 8:52 pm - Voted 10/10


About three weeks ago, I climbed NGA, and this picture was useful to me beforehand in envisioning the route and then seeing it for real. Interestingly, though, somewhere between "Horiz. Tree" and "Finger Crack," I headed up more vertically until I was below the overhanging ledges you see just below the "summit" in this picture. Not immediately seeing a good way up or to the left, I worked to the right and climbed some exposed Class 4/5 stuff to gain the summit ridge. On the way back down, I did find two decent ways through those overhanging ledges, one better for going up and the other better for down. A good morning, and I'm putting together a trip report that will include pictures of those route variations.

Anyway, thanks again; this picture helped me have a mental image of the route before getting there.


MoapaPk - May 3, 2012 9:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Thanks

"Branch Whitney" describes a route that veers off to the right in about that section; he calls it class 3, but the pictures look pretty intimidating. That may be the route you found on the way down. The "classic" way, after the horiz tree, is to go diagonally up this ramp, identifiable by the cracks:
ramp ... it's awkward, but really not that steep. However, I did have someone ask for a belay on that spot, which was tough, because there are no good anchors for 100'.

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