Niagara Peak North Face

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Nov 1, 2009
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Fall

North Face Snow Route

Niagara Peak 13,807
Burns Gulch Approach
Solo Undocumented Route- Direct line up North Face

I slept in until four a.m.. I had packed my gear the night before so all I had to do is press some coffee and hit the road. I drove to Eureka and proceeded to Burns Gulch via ATV. I didn’t know the road condition and didn’t want to take a chance. The road was in good shape. I went as far as possible up the Burns Gulch Road until I lost traction at around 11,000.

I put on snowshoes and headed up Burns Gulch. I generally stayed on the North/Right side. There was a very large drift bisecting the upper gulch. I followed the prominence that probably cause it and came across a nice line up the North face of Niagara. The snow was fairly firm and I gave it a go. It was fairly steep, and I had trouble in the upper stretches with loose rocks under the snow. I joined the usual route from Burns Gulch just below the false summit. I circled around to the east and followed a wide ridge to the summit.

What a gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky. I took lots of photos in every direction and headed down. I originally planned on completing a cirque of the basin and going to Jones Peak. Upon getting to the saddle low point, I had a gel and weighed my options. It was almost 13:00 and I figured it would get dark at 17:30. I decided to go down. In the end, it would have probably been better to go over Jones and taken a direct line down to the ATV. I wallowed in snow the whole way. The route over Jones appeared to have low snow levels.

Burns Gulch Approach

Looking Down Burns Gulch

Looking back NW

Looking North off Niagara

North Crown Mountain


Drift across upper Burns Gulch

Giant Drift

View of Niagara

Niagara Peak

View down through my legs

Through the Legs

Looking down route

Looking Down Route

Upper Niagara Peak

Upper section of Niagara

Niagara Summit

Niagara Peak Summit

Niagara Summit

Summit Shot

Niagara Peak Summit

Niagara Peak Summit

Handies Peak

Half Peak

Driving Home-Grenadiers


Driving Home-Grenadiers


Driving Home-Grenadiers



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cftbq - Nov 8, 2009 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted


Beautiful day, nice pics.

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