We started the day before the climb from Milano and reached Saasc Fura hut very late in the evening (around 10 pm). We got there rained and tired and found out that our reservations were gone, due to late arrival. We ended up sleeping on the floor and had to wake up at 3.30 am in time for first breakfast lot. We got a bed after and started the hike late around 7.30 am. It took a lot to reach the wall (around 2.30 hrs) but in the end we had to wait for some teams we cought up in the last segments. We slept in the small bivouac next to the summit - we found it in the darkness and the best advice is to follow the old cans left on the way. It was a difficult night with 9 people in the bivouac, however, next day we got back through Giannetti, Italy and back to Switzerland by car.
The climb is spectacular and not very difficult, but be prepared for what comes with the length of it. Up to the most difficult pitch we climbed on boots.
Climbed the Nordkante and descended to Refugio Gianetti
Brilliant route, froze my butt off. BUSY on the way up and down
great (and long) climbing day in June 2011
quite a lot of snow+ice in the upper part
Great climbing and lots of fun. Highly recommended!
Heard about the epics encountered while rapping off so we descended to Gianetti Hut instead making it a long day. Interestingly, we hiked back to Sasc Fura Hut via the Porcellizzo and Trubinasca Passes which were in much better condition then we were led to believe by the locals. We took no crampons, just a single axe between us.
Time consuming to abseil on descent.
Long day, we took 8½ hour to the summit. Very nice Climb.