North Approach

Overview

This route is shorter, more alpine, and usually faster than the trail approach on the south side but requires some routefinding. Can be done from late spring thru fall. This is particularly enjoyable as an early-summer snow route, with fine ski and glissading terrain in the basin. I've seen die-hard skiers on the basin icefield as late as October. Best time to go is usually in June, when the Twin Lakes road has just melted out to the Tomyhoi Lake trailhead.

Getting There

Exit 255 on I-5, drive east on the the Mount Baker Highway #542, leave the highway just past the highway department buildings at Shuksan, proceed up Twin Lakes Road 5 miles to the Tomyhoi Lake trailhead. It may be possible to drive further, but road conditions and parking above this point are often questionable. Note that USFS Forest Pass is required wherever you park, this is zealously enforced by the local sheriff. See Red Tape.

Route Description

From the Tomyhoi lake trailhead parking area, Hike east (up) the Twin Lakes road approx 1 mile. An overgrown road spur at this point (elev 4000') branches right from this point and leads downward towards Swamp Creek (this leads to the old mill site of the Evergreen Mine). The bridge is long gone, crossing the creek may require fording. Avalanche accumulation here usually provides a good snow bridge in early season. Cross the creek and contour east along the south bank toward the obvious snow or talus gully which breaks the cliff band on the S. Ascend this gully 800', opening up into a scenic 1/2 mile long hanging basin. Permanent snow and a glacier remnant occupy the upper portion of the basin. The east summit horn of Goat towers impressively above to the left of the saddle at the head of the basin. Ascend easy slopes over meadow, rock, and/or snow S to the saddle between the two summits (elev 6100'). To climb the bulky W. summit, follow the ridge westward (or take the adjoining snow slope on the E flank), moving onto the south flank if necessary near the summit to avoid steep ground. To climb the higher E. summit, make a short rising traverse east from saddle onto the SW flank (avoids steps and excess scrub trees on ridge), then ascend steep snow or heather to the summit. The more adventurous and technical can access the north ridge of the E. summit from the upper basin.

Essential Gear

Take ice axe, sunblock, sunglasses, hat. Skis or snowshoes in early season. Crampons might be helpful in late season.

Hazards

Watch for possible rockfall from the flanking wall when in the gully. Some avalanche potential may exist in the basin from the adjoining slopes in spring. In June the hanging basin can become a solar cooker when the sun is high.

Images

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