Climbed this back around 1995 or so (if I remember correctly). Really fun route, which we simulclimbed in fairly icy conditions. The descent was probably as involved as the climb. We did it in a leisurely day from Treasures Lakes, which allowed for a couple of post climb martinis at the lakeside.
W P. Dowdy: North Coulior the day after we did Thompson...and the wives had had enough of the moth ridden cabin.
I climbed this ice couloir two times (never roped). First time with Eric Klostermann in 10 hours RT from South Lake in October of 1998 and second time with Michael Gordon in August of 2000. This ice couloir can be a really good, one day RT car-to-car, solo outing. Several of my friends do it every year, just for training. The fact, that one climbs up the gully and down the Treasure Col back to the Treasure Lakes trail and the car, allows for this. There really is not ANY 5.6 climbing, if one follows the easiest way. From the notch at the top of the couloir, drop down 40 feet, traverse left 20 feet, climb 4th class ramp that changes into low angle corner. 200 feet of this gets you to the summit. This is one of the best ice gullies in the Sierra, because of it's position, because it's away from major trails and you can easily do the climb in a day from your car at South Lake. Recommended.
When we climbed the north couloir, only about 10% of it was ice. the rest was knee deep powder. It was brutally hot when we started the couloir proper at about 12:30pm. We were able to move unroped up to the notch using ice tools and crampons.
from there 100 feet of 5.6 climbing takes you to the summit. We did not find any register up there.
Fun climb, although the ice wasn't 'in' yet - just a smattering if ice beneath very cruddy and irregular neve. Harrington Couloir on Mt Thompson was in much better condition. The climb at the top was fun - the 5.6 variation was fun, although very short.