This looks like a terrific route, I have been wanting to do Borah for a long time, and this is great inticement! Wonderful photos too!
Cheers;
Tim
ps. Is this route accessible late season?
Thanks! Snow is what cobbles this route together and this year we've been pretty dry. If you come out to do Borah I'd suggest the N.F route. It's usually in good shape thru july and has a much more "classic" feel. Judging from your page it's a climb well within your capabilities.
We downclimbed the upper portion of the E. Ridge in 1976 after making our ascent of the N.F. Direct. We didn't think about the descent until after we reached the summit and realized that to get back to our camp we had to downclimb the N.F. or walk all the way back up Rock Creek if we used the W. Ridge to get down. We descended the upper NE Ridge and then downclimbed the upper most gulley of the N.F. to get back to camp. The upper most gully is steeper than the main N.F. so we had to downclimb on front points (and 2 tools) most of the way down to the moraine. I slipped at the top of the gully before we put on our crampons and slid on my feet to the only patch of dry rock where the two gullys take off. It was one of those moments in climbing that you never forget... We also used the upper N.E. Ridge in the early 80s when the main face had a 3-4 foot crown that was left over from the avalanche that swept away Bruce Otto's snow measuring gear. We never did a complete ascent of the ridge since we traversed over from the main N.F. so hats off to you guys for completing this route.
The ridge wasn't in my plans for that day, I really only intended on climbing another peak on the ridge. When I got there, I decided I was too close to pass it up. Ive been up and down Borah on many faces / ridges over the years but nothing really compares to the North Face route you guys put up on Breitenbach. It still stands head above the standard fare in the Lost River Range. I'd love to see you post a route page. : )
Curt (Olson) wrote up our climb for 1982 American Alpine Journal and later Tom Lopez published a complete route description with pictures from Bob Moseley in his latest edition of "Idaho, A Climbing Guide". I'll see if I can round up some photos and post a route description here on SP.
Ive read the write up in Tom's guide, but I'm much more interested in the details of the climb. I’ll see if I can get my hands on the AAJ report. A few years ago, I had a partner willing to give the route a close look but he shattered his femur in a cycling accident and his future for sustained climbs. I've spent some time scoping out the route with field glasses from Mt. Corruption and got an even closer look at the rock on a traverse to the summit from Donaldson peak. That stuff just doesn’t look conducive for good/safe gear. Your belay photo here on SP only backs up my observation. Very bold stuff, especially for the early 80’s
T Sharp - May 24, 2007 9:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Wow;This looks like a terrific route, I have been wanting to do Borah for a long time, and this is great inticement! Wonderful photos too!
Cheers;
Tim
ps. Is this route accessible late season?
skunk ape - May 25, 2007 11:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Wow;Thanks! Snow is what cobbles this route together and this year we've been pretty dry. If you come out to do Borah I'd suggest the N.F route. It's usually in good shape thru july and has a much more "classic" feel. Judging from your page it's a climb well within your capabilities.
reboyles - Dec 29, 2009 12:53 pm - Voted 10/10
North East RidgeWe downclimbed the upper portion of the E. Ridge in 1976 after making our ascent of the N.F. Direct. We didn't think about the descent until after we reached the summit and realized that to get back to our camp we had to downclimb the N.F. or walk all the way back up Rock Creek if we used the W. Ridge to get down. We descended the upper NE Ridge and then downclimbed the upper most gulley of the N.F. to get back to camp. The upper most gully is steeper than the main N.F. so we had to downclimb on front points (and 2 tools) most of the way down to the moraine. I slipped at the top of the gully before we put on our crampons and slid on my feet to the only patch of dry rock where the two gullys take off. It was one of those moments in climbing that you never forget... We also used the upper N.E. Ridge in the early 80s when the main face had a 3-4 foot crown that was left over from the avalanche that swept away Bruce Otto's snow measuring gear. We never did a complete ascent of the ridge since we traversed over from the main N.F. so hats off to you guys for completing this route.
Bob
skunk ape - Dec 29, 2009 5:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: North East RidgeThe ridge wasn't in my plans for that day, I really only intended on climbing another peak on the ridge. When I got there, I decided I was too close to pass it up. Ive been up and down Borah on many faces / ridges over the years but nothing really compares to the North Face route you guys put up on Breitenbach. It still stands head above the standard fare in the Lost River Range. I'd love to see you post a route page. : )
reboyles - Dec 29, 2009 6:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: North East RidgeCurt (Olson) wrote up our climb for 1982 American Alpine Journal and later Tom Lopez published a complete route description with pictures from Bob Moseley in his latest edition of "Idaho, A Climbing Guide". I'll see if I can round up some photos and post a route description here on SP.
skunk ape - Dec 30, 2009 7:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: North East RidgeIve read the write up in Tom's guide, but I'm much more interested in the details of the climb. I’ll see if I can get my hands on the AAJ report. A few years ago, I had a partner willing to give the route a close look but he shattered his femur in a cycling accident and his future for sustained climbs. I've spent some time scoping out the route with field glasses from Mt. Corruption and got an even closer look at the rock on a traverse to the summit from Donaldson peak. That stuff just doesn’t look conducive for good/safe gear. Your belay photo here on SP only backs up my observation. Very bold stuff, especially for the early 80’s