North Face Direct Climber's Log

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Rockclimber77 - Sep 5, 2011 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011

north face direct  Sucess!

The first 2 pitches were nice, however if you are not used to climbing in yosemite you may not consider this 5-5 climbing and pulling crux moves over your pro. the rest of the climb is up some muddy chosse gully and is a bit dangerous and crappy.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Sep 5, 2011 10:08 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011

I thought it was a terrible route  Sucess!

done with Rockclimber77 - the first 2 pitches were on a nice rock, little exposed (there was a fixed rope hanging out there, and piton at the base of the climb).
Near the top it became more like class 3/4 mud and loose scramble. I got hit by a large rock once, a few near misses when grabbing onto a large boulder, which became loose. Would not recommend this route, and will never do it again.
Descent from Lavender Col into Blaine Basin is heinous - on a tons of loose scree.
We did it in one day from East Dallas Trailhead, and it is definitively a long day - not a half a day as the route describes.

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