Started from Ediza lake and got to the Ritter-Banner saddle. Then climbed North Face via Muir route. It seems to me that the first ten vertical feet of the chute just above the apex of the North Glacier is class 4. Descended via Right-hand chute.
Here is the video of the ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xZgSS4OMv0
Probably a good 20 yrs. ago. Steep snow and then an icy chute made for an interesting climb. Should've done Banner too since I was there.
Great route with lots of fun scrambling, routefinding, and snow climbing as well. Loose, but scenic. Climbed with Sierra Mountaineering Group.
Climbed the right hand chute and traversed to the West face close to the top. The snow from the saddle is steep. Bring crampons and ice axe.
Classic Muir chute up the face from the saddle. Descended through the Secor chute on the way down....very chossy and loose. Great day and climb.
I forget the exact date. I remember climbing steep snow above the saddle.
After soloing a new route (I think) on Banner I descended the saddle and went up the Muir route on Ritter. Almost left the ax at home but was glad I had it to get up the snow field. The climbing was ok but a little dull, so I opted for some 5th class moves on the arete to the left of the chute. Descended the same way as Muir, on totally sucky screw and a snow field off the backside. Nice day over all.