Summited August 2017 during the total solar eclipse. Here is my full trip report: https://gethighonaltitude.com/2017/08/15/mt-shuksan-the-north-face/
good times with Vancouver crew- a turning point for me.
Approach and route were easier than expected.
Climbing Team: 3 males from Pittsburgh, PA.
No other climbers were encountered during our entire time on the mountain, on ascent or descent routes.
Conditions: All indications were that the mountain had experienced a normal amount of snowfall during this winter. Rain had been heavy for the 3 weeks prior to our trip, and occuring at high elevations because of warm temps.
May 27, 2006 – Approach
Dirt road 3075 choked with undergrowth. Parked near its end at a minor clearing. Hike approach via White Salmon Creek crossing. Rainy. Approx 4.5 hours to “high camp” (5400’), in dug out snow pit. Clouds/fog – visibility approx 500-1000’.
May 28, 2006 – Summit Push
2am start. Breakfast, break camp, rope up. Depart 4:15am. 40 degrees. Partly cloudy. Intermittent visibility. North Face route in fine condition, mostly soft through firm pack snow. No ice up t to 50 degrees (short sections). Routefinding easy as visibility remained good (1000’ plus). No wind. No protection used. Reached top of NF at 9”15am (5 hours and 15 minutes to climb). Several crevasse crossings or end runs.
9:15 am Traverse to south side of summit pyramid. 3 hours to arrive at base at 12:45. visibility 200-500’ variable. No wind. Climb to summit steep snow-covered rock (mostly snow climb). Summit at 2:15 pm.
Left base of summit pyramid at 3:15 pm to descend via White Salmon Glacier route (Sulfide glacier to Hell’s Highway to Upper Curtis glacier to Winnie’s Slide to Upper White Salmon glacier to Lower White Salmon glacier.) Visibility down to 200’. Navigating by compass and GPS, very tricky. Arrived at bottom of glacier at 7:45 pm, set camp. 15 ½ hours summit day.
May 29, 2006 – Down and Out
9:30 am departure for 3-hour hike out to vehicle and finally some views of the mountain as clouds partially lifted.