I was successful at climbing this route the first time, but last week was my 5th attempt at going back to do it again. One out of 5 isn't bad. He he. The reality is you need to get the approach wired to make for a good trip.
Curt Olson and I climbed this route together in 1978 when he was still in high school. Curt had not fully recovered from the surgery he had that summer so I ended up leading the entire climb. The old, hard ice was covered with a new brittle layer that shattered (dinner plating) when struck so poor Curt had to endure the ice fall from my hacking and whacking until we got to the traverse. This route is known as the North Face Traverse by those of us who climbed it first.
Climbed with my bro Dooley in July