North Nesakwatch Spire is a mountain of high quality granite rising approximately 500 meters above it's surroundings just south of Chilliwack, British Columbia. The Spire offers tremendous local relief above the valley floors to the east (Centre Creek) and to the west (Nesakwatch Creek). This mountain has good access for a peak in B.C. with driving via logging roads and a good climbers trail from both the west and east sides. The mountain offers excellent views of surrounding peaks from Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Challenger to the south, to the Garibaldi range in the northwest, to the Cheam range in the north. North Nesakwatch Spire is located just north of the highest peak in the area, Mount Rexford and is 1 valley to the east of the famous Slesse Mountain.
The first ascent was done by Dick Culbert, Ronald Hatch, Monte Laserre, and Arnold Shives in September of 1961.
From Vancouver or Hope, B.C., take the Trans Canada Highway to exit #119 with a sign for Sardis. Drive south through the town of Sardis for 5.5 kilometers to just before a bridge crossing the Chilliwack River. Turn left here on Chilliwack River Road. Drive 30.3 kilometers then look for a sign that says Riverside Camp Site. Turn right here and follow the logging road to the south. At 400 meters you will reach a junction, turn right here for access to the west side of the peak via the Nesakwatch Creek trailhead. Turn left here for access to the east side of the peak via Centre Creek.
This peak is most commonly approached from west. Continue driving up the Nesakwatch Creek FSR (high clearance 4wd highly recommended). Drive for 5.6 kilometers to a clearing area at 640 meters elevation. You can walk from here (2.3 kilometers of road walking) or continue up the eroded FSR road on the left. The road is not in great shape but is doable (high clearance 4wd required). Drive or walk 2 kilometers to a T then proceed left up an overgrown FSR. I'd recommend parking even a jeep at the T. Hike 300 meters up the "road" then switch back to the left. After about 100 meters, look for flagging on the right. This is the trailhead.
Several routes have been done on the north spire. Topos can be optained through the climbing shop, Valhalla Pure, in Squamish. I will try to get these and expand this section in the future.
North Ridge - A scramble route with a few low 5th class moves near the summit. Generally loose rock. Several option exist to add some technical climbing near the crest. Grade II PD+ 1 or 2 roped pitches
Southwest Ridge - An excellent looking climb following a series of splitter crack systems up the ridge. Crux Pitch Photo
. The climb starts out steep, then has a moderate middle section, then gets steep again near the summit. IV D 5.9, 8 pitches.
West Buttress - A good looking route tackling the steep face between the north ridge and southwest ridge. Details unknown.
There are lots of camping options. One idea is to camp at the many campgrounds on Chilliwack River Road. There are several high bivi sites below the spires with good access to meltwater. Do not go up here late season to bivi and expect water. There won't be any.
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