I would only recommend this as a day route with stronger 5.7-5.9 with minimal gear so you can move fast and solo lots of the route. Way fun then.
Made a CTC winter ascent of the complete North Ridge (from the Owens Valley) with Charles Ince and Nate Ricklin. We started at 10:15 PM on Jan 30, and climbed through the night until sunrise, when we took about an hour break to brew up. We summited at 5:30 PM and took and additional 9 hours to descend Tuttle Creek and find our way back to the car at about 2:30 AM (due to exhaustion we had about an hour nap in a cave in Tuttle Creek). Total CTC time was 29 hours. We didn't bring any bivy gear -- though we did bring costumes.
Nice route done I'm not sure how long ago (1992?). A manageable day from Whitney Portal. Long but continually interesting, especially finding a mellow route without a rope.
Should have gone for it and soloed. But wimped out and roped up.
for a very long day!
One day from Whitney Portal...spectacular views but a little scary on the final section since we had a party above us (rock fall danger was serious).
Simul-solo with Michelle (just under 9 hrs car-to-car). Back at the Whitney Portal Store by 1PM for homemade fries!
Thanks to Miguel for coming along and letting me talk him into ditching the gear in the car.
Climbed with Kris Solem - who needs gear? Beautiful (long) day for my first Sierra summit!
Climbed with Miguel Forjan in 15hrs. car to car. Encountered snow and ice choked cracks and slabs. Made for interesting climbing (especially in mountaineering boots). Found some 5.7/8 in there as well.
I attempted the Complete North Ridge of LPP (from the desert floor) in winter 4 times between 1995 and 2001. The first time with Peter Zurla in 1995, we got stopped by very thin verglas below the third tower. We simply didn't have the gear to protect what in the summer were 4th class slabs. We bivied standing on a table size ledge with our bags over our heads and in the morning, did about ten raps down the face to Meysan Lakes drainage. In December of 1999, Grant Gardner and I tried again and got stopped below the 1st tower in hip deep snow. Ron Hudson and I tried again the next year and gave up bellow the first tower notch, Ron didn't feel this would go. We descended the gully just right of the Bastille Buttress (looking down). In 2001, Joe LeMay and I almost suceeded, we climbed all the way to the last tower, but my mistake forced us to bivi below the large ledge of the tower. The night was extremely cold, we both were totally frozen and in the morning we did 18 raps down another frozen gully to later reach the base of Bastille Tower and the lower gully that leads to flat ground. I still don't know if the COMPLETE North Ridge was ever climbed in winter, I know the Meysan Lakes portion was climbed in the winter some years ago (Parker?).
Scott Sederstrom and I climbed this route in about 14 hours car to car in May 2000. I was knackered by the final pitches. We did not take (nor could we find) the path of least resistance, and wound of making rock moves in the 5.7/8 range. I loved climbing the route in spring conditions.