Northeast Buttress Climber's Log

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dunsum - Jul 16, 2019 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2019

Cascade Classic  Sucess!

Started at trailhead 1.5 miles down the road from Rainy Pass, hiked in to bivy below the glacier. Climbed the route to the summit and descended to Park Creek on day 2. Hiked back to car on day 3. Great route! lot's of fun, lots of work.


seano - Jul 23, 2014 2:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2014

Tough dayhike in bad weather  Sucess!

15h05 car-to-car in a mixture of rain and clouds. I got lost on the way down and ended up coming out Park Creek, but that only added a few miles. Mostly class 3-4 as Beckey says, and because it has so many sharp edges, the rock isn't that much harder to climb when wet. Finding the way down the south side with 100 yards or less of visibility was not fun. Trip report.


Darren9 - Aug 6, 2013 2:35 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013

Best Alpine Climb Yet  Sucess!

Sierra Mountaineering Group, North Cascades Expedition 2013. We climbed Goode from the west by first dropping down the Storm King - Goode Col and circling around to the glacier where we bivied. The next day at first light we climbed the route from the north which looks to be much more straightforward and gets one on the buttresss quickly and without having to negotiate any bergschrund.
We climbed it in boots carrying bivy gear and lots of water, and were able to complete it in one long day. We stayed on the buttress all the way to the Black Tooth notch, encountering wonderful 3rd and 4th class climbing, and around 5 pitches of 5.5 around 8100 feet as described. To attain the summit, one has to move climbers right after that.
After bivying a second night just below the summit due to rain, we descended the SW couloir to our camp on the west side at 7,300 ft.
This is a committing route but an amazing adventure complete with decent rock, glaciers, routefinding and usually challenging weather.
As a grade III+, 3000 ft, it is my best alpine climb to date.

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