My climbing partner Kent and I did the N/E Cooley second week of May. In a couple of words, hot and bombed out. Kinda late in the season, so the approach was sporty through the willows, manz brush etc. Snow conditions not great (obviously) and no snow for the last 250 vertical. Had to work toward the southwest side and climb from there (scramble, no pro used). Descent was wet but still good glissading. Roughly a 2 1/2 day trip.
Climb the NE Couloir with Richard P. Long but fun day climb.
Bivy 500ft below NE Couloir. On Summit Day, we found great snow conditions and perfect weather/veiws. Next season we'll try to ski the route.
view is worth the walk alone. bonus = awesome turns!
Dayhiked Langley's NE Couloir with Forjan & Seano. The weather was very warm below but chilly up top with some snow flurries at the summit. The snowshoes were a definite must have and the glissade down the couloir was a blast. Took us around 12 hours roundtrip.
blackmouth, seano and I day climbed Langley's NE couloir in about 12 hrs car-to-car. 2WD car couldn't make it all the way to the actual Tuttle Creek T/H. Had to park on a pull-out a few hundred yards back. Snowshoes came handy after 10,000 feet.
Enjoyable approach up the much maligned Tuttle Creek drainage. Contrary to much of what I had read, there is a reasonably well established and well cairned climber's use trail from the stone house until the second bench. From there the route is self evident. The couloir is seemingly endless and gets alot of sun. Best with an early alpine start.
An overnight trip up Tuttle Creek and the Northeast couloir. A never ending snow gully with 3500' of gain and 50 plus degrees at the top.