Northeast Ridge, Mt. Triumph

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Northeast Ridge, Mt. Triumph

Northeast Ridge, Mt. Triumph

The mental crux pitch of the route - the "heather ledges" pitch. This is about 300 feet below the summit. You traverse the nice grassy ledges (below is the overhanging north face of Triumph) and then scramble up these downward sloping, heather-overgrown, crumbly slabs with no pro. The rope length (and the lack of pro for a simulclimb) forces you to belay part way up the heather on anchorless belay. Did not care for this pitch very much (July 25, 2004).
rpc
on Jul 26, 2004 7:33 pm
Lat/Lon: 48.70650°N / 121.355°W
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 62286

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Klenke

Klenke - Jul 28, 2004 3:32 pm - Voted 10/10

Mental Crux

"Mental Crux" is a good description for the heather pitch, as I concur about the no-pro factor. Now, think how hard it would be (in rock shoes) if the heather was damp.



Last September there were three of us, I was leading and had to consider the abilities and fear-factors of the two below me. Still, I found time to snap a photo or two. Here's one of them.



rpc

rpc - Jul 28, 2004 4:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Mental Crux

...yet it looks so innocent in both your shots and mine! I had pretty much no pro on this section and was running out of rope trying to reach something with a positive slope....My concern was that Shirley would get into this sh...y terrain before I reached a belay spot and there we'd be - no pro between us on a crappy surface. Fortunately, I found something (a drit patch/slab - no anchor) that was horizontal to belay from before she started going up the heather.

Thanks for the caption confirmations/corrections!

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