My buddy and I did this route when we ran into a huge group lounging at the base of the South Ridge. We would have waited at least a couple of hours, so we dropped over the col and did this thing. I would put the whole route at 5.0 or so. The lower slab is easy, but I think definitely qualifies as 5th class terrain.
Above the slab, we climbed what I think Beckey describes as the Southwest face. There is a generally steep cliff to right, above the ledges described in this route. We followed a few small ledges up to a short corner, to out left on another small ledge. I think there are lots of options. Again, this is probably very low 5th class, and a more direct route up onto the upper West face.
We descended the route described above, but we rappelled the slab. There was tat on the tree described that was decent enough to use. Then there were a few fixed pieces on the face above and climbers right of the slab itself, which we used as our anchor for our second rappel.
johnwbarkhausen - Apr 17, 2019 7:47 am - Hasn't voted
Avoid the CrowdsMy buddy and I did this route when we ran into a huge group lounging at the base of the South Ridge. We would have waited at least a couple of hours, so we dropped over the col and did this thing. I would put the whole route at 5.0 or so. The lower slab is easy, but I think definitely qualifies as 5th class terrain.
Above the slab, we climbed what I think Beckey describes as the Southwest face. There is a generally steep cliff to right, above the ledges described in this route. We followed a few small ledges up to a short corner, to out left on another small ledge. I think there are lots of options. Again, this is probably very low 5th class, and a more direct route up onto the upper West face.
We descended the route described above, but we rappelled the slab. There was tat on the tree described that was decent enough to use. Then there were a few fixed pieces on the face above and climbers right of the slab itself, which we used as our anchor for our second rappel.