Nanga Parbat Additions and Corrections

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Damien Gildea

Damien Gildea - Feb 15, 2008 1:23 pm - Hasn't voted

More Than Five

"To date there have only been five ascents from the south"

There has been more than one repeat of the Schell, plus the Koreans repeated the Messner route in 2005 just before Anderson/House did their route. I'd say it's at least eight ?



dmiki - Mar 24, 2008 5:58 am - Hasn't voted

"seven 8000 peaks climbed in winter"

Eight have been climbed.

Everest - 17 February 1980, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Manaslu - 14 January 1984, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski (PL)
Dhaulagiri - 21 January 1985, Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok (PL)
Cho Oyu - 12 February 1985, Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski (repeated three days later by Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka) (PL)
Kangchenjunga - 11 January 1986, Jerry Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Annapurna I - 3 February 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (PL)
Lhotse - 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Shisha Pangma - 14 January 2005, Simone Moro (IT) and Peter Morawsky (PL)
K2 - none
Makalu - none
Nanga Parbat - none
Gasherbrum I - none
Broad Peak - none
Gasherbrum II - none

Some further info


BigLee - Apr 16, 2009 2:58 pm - Hasn't voted


It's actually nine 8000'ers that have been climbed in winter as Makulu got climbed this this year. Cheers


dmiki - Apr 19, 2009 1:38 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Re:

Thanks for the update!

"On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent.

Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9th 2009 by Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko. It was the final Nepali 8000er to be climbed in winter conditions."


dmiki - Feb 4, 2011 7:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Re:

GII 02 Feb 2011 Simone Moro (Italy), Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan), Cory Richards (Canada)


aaporik - Oct 6, 2009 1:58 am - Voted 9/10

HiMountain Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 2006/2007

Members of the Team; Krzysztof Wielicki - The expedition leader, Jan Szulc - The deputy expedition leader, Jacek Berbeka - climber, Artur Hajzer - climber, Tommy Heinrich - climber and photographer, Jacek Jawien - climber, Przemyslaw Lozinski - member, Ghulam Rasool from Pakistan as a climber, Hassan Sadpara from Pakistan as a climber, Robert Szymczak as a expedition doctor, Krysztof Tarasewicz as a climber, Dariusz Zaluski as a climber.

Route the expedition choose was Schell Route.

Local partner: Asghar Ali Porik - Jasmine Tours


aaporik - Oct 6, 2009 2:05 am - Voted 9/10

Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008/2009

Members Jacek Teler - The leader of the expedition, jaroslaw Zurawski as a team member.

Route: Normal Diamir Face
Period of permit: 14-12-2008 to 15-02-2009
Result: unsuccessful reach until Camp 1.
Base camp: successful to establish winter base camp near summer base camp
Local partner: Asghar Ali Porik - Jasmine Tours


aaporik - Dec 22, 2010 1:33 am - Voted 9/10

Russian Solo Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2010/2011

Russian solo Winter Nanga Parbat 8125m Expedition 2010/1011.
Diamir Face
Date of start December 9th, 2010 permit until Feb., 8th, 2011
Climber name Mr. Sergey Tsygankov Nikolayevich

His climbing background


Matterhorn (some times, different routes) incluging solo after 15-th October (almost winter:)) and others less 4000 meters

Elbrus (solo, winter, normal route)
Ushba (solo NE route)
Shkhara and others (3000 - 4000 meters), including solo and winter

Ural (only winter):
Manaraga (partly solo, traverse 5 peaks, tempreture -40 C, before -50 C night, winter 2010)

Lenin peak (winter, normal route)
Communism peak (SW route)

Tian Shan:

Khan Tengri (solo, right part of north face)



Belukha (some times, incl. winter and solo)


Luc - Jan 24, 2011 12:57 pm - Voted 10/10

New Route July 11, 2009

Austro-Canadian north-west buttress.
Alpine Style!


Fausto79 - Jun 3, 2013 4:57 am - Hasn't voted

Need to Update

Should update the story facts. MAzeno Ridge was completed last year by Rick Allen and Sandy Allan. Scottish/English team. Took them 11 days i think and some members of the team turned back due to cold weather. Rick and Sandy kept going though and made it to the top via the ridge.

More info here:


Simosava76 - Jun 30, 2016 6:30 pm - Hasn't voted

First winter ascent

On February 27 2016 Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro successfully made the first winter ascent on the Nanga. A fourth member, Tamara Lunger, stopped just few feets below the summit.
They climbed by the Kinshofer routte on the Diamir side.


runout - Dec 22, 2018 10:18 am - Voted 7/10

North-East Face -> North-West Face

I think this is about the year 2000 expedition which was on the North-West Face and even Messner was not the first there:

I'd call it 'Diama Route' after the Diama Glacier (not to confuse with Diamir which is next to it). Mummery disappeared on the Diama Glacier trying to reach the Ganalo Pass.

There were at least two previous expeditions on that route.
Wörgötter stated to us that they had been on around 7400m when they turned on the face below the north summit.

We (Clara and me) reached 7760m on that route in 2008 using ski. Messner didn't provide any information to us and local people say that he had never been over 6000m on that route. We couldn't find any pictures from Messners expedition which were made from the ground on higher altitude.
Later Eisendle wrote to me that they didn't look at the altimeter when they turned.

This route was finished by a Polish/French team in winter 2018.
AAJ 2017:

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