Your route annotated as #4 in this pic is correct in so much as it is an easy Class 3 approach to the Class 5.0 route. But I think the easiest route (one easier than Class 5.0) deserves some mention. I elaborate on it in the caption of this picture. This east side route is merely Class 4 (but quite exposed to the North Face). I was able to free-solo it, but not without some initial hesitation.
Did you down solo the route too? Certainly would be great if there was a reasonable way to get up and down this thing without harnesses and ropes, particularly for parties doing a Tattosh traverse. When my climbing partner and I did the complete traverse (- Stevens) in a day, we carried a rope and only used it for the rap off Unicorn. Would have been nice to ditch a few unnecessary lbs. Thanks for the pic and the beta.
I soloed the route, essentially doing the same thing as Eric Hoffman. I carried a 50m rope because he said one might be better. But I learned a 30m would do fine to get off of the south side of the summit. I had plenty of rope to spare (see this pic). I would not like to downclimb the way I went up the east side. It's got some wobble-knee exposure to the north face that would make a mountain goat cry.
1. On reaching the upper lip of the gully, turn East (left) to ascend the heather slopes & find the well-defined climbers' trail.
2. Stay on the trail close to the rock to avoid the worst of the scree slopes.
3. There is easy 3rd-class scrambling to avoid the steep snow in the saddle.
Klenke - Oct 28, 2006 4:27 am - Voted 10/10
Another route right of #4?Your route annotated as #4 in this pic is correct in so much as it is an easy Class 3 approach to the Class 5.0 route. But I think the easiest route (one easier than Class 5.0) deserves some mention. I elaborate on it in the caption of this picture. This east side route is merely Class 4 (but quite exposed to the North Face). I was able to free-solo it, but not without some initial hesitation.
cluck - Nov 5, 2006 7:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Another route right of #4?Did you down solo the route too? Certainly would be great if there was a reasonable way to get up and down this thing without harnesses and ropes, particularly for parties doing a Tattosh traverse. When my climbing partner and I did the complete traverse (- Stevens) in a day, we carried a rope and only used it for the rap off Unicorn. Would have been nice to ditch a few unnecessary lbs. Thanks for the pic and the beta.
Klenke - Nov 7, 2006 9:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Another route right of #4?I soloed the route, essentially doing the same thing as Eric Hoffman. I carried a 50m rope because he said one might be better. But I learned a 30m would do fine to get off of the south side of the summit. I had plenty of rope to spare (see this pic). I would not like to downclimb the way I went up the east side. It's got some wobble-knee exposure to the north face that would make a mountain goat cry.
Mollymawk - Jul 21, 2015 7:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Notes on summer approach1. On reaching the upper lip of the gully, turn East (left) to ascend the heather slopes & find the well-defined climbers' trail.
2. Stay on the trail close to the rock to avoid the worst of the scree slopes.
3. There is easy 3rd-class scrambling to avoid the steep snow in the saddle.