There IS a view from the top, although it's from a rock tower about 100 yards south of the true summit and a few feet lower. Scramble the tower by a gully on the NE side. It's a mighty fine viewpoint.
The boundary trail on the Buncombe/McDowell line used to be wide open and exhilarating, about the nearest thing to "alpine" in the NC mountains. No longer. Regrowth among the outcrops has mostly blocked the views on the way up, and the trail is extremely faint and primitive (though blazed or flagged in a few places). Access is now from NC 80 via the MST, which follows the ridge for awhile, then slides onto its NE flank. When it crosses back to go to the S flank, turn straight up the ridgeline.
The summit can also be reached by the gated road to Clingmans Peak from Steppe's Gap. Skirt the peak itself and continue south on the BM Crest Trail, which as of 2018 had been recently brushed out, with most deadfall cut through.