"Park your car in the village of Bondo and continue on foot to the Rifugio Sciora"
You can drive till near Laret (saving about 1,5 h walk) simply buying a ticket that allows it
It's quite strange (for Swiss precision): ticket has a cost of 12SF or 9€, but if you enter a 10€ bill you get back 1SF ! :)
On 10th July 2006 we did the whole route from the Sciora hut to the summit with a descent into Italy to the Gianetti hut. We climbed as a party of three, which was not optimal, and we took about 13 hours hut to hut. In the upper section, marked Red on my image of the Gemelli we chose to leave the ridge using an obvious break as a traverse line. This led into an area of more broken rock and less pleasant climbing. We had to traverse back across poorly protected but easy IV+ slabs, and were relieved to find the long stride pitch and it's old ladder of pegs as an indication we were properly back on route.
Note the route was not (2006)equipped beyond the top of the Flatiron except for occasional pegs and slings.
Later, back in the Sciora hut, we were told the last party that had done the whole route had made the same detour. We got the impression that the full route wasn't very popular, maybe one ascent a year or so.
Gabriele Roth - Sep 4, 2006 8:04 am - Hasn't voted
faster access"Park your car in the village of Bondo and continue on foot to the Rifugio Sciora"
You can drive till near Laret (saving about 1,5 h walk) simply buying a ticket that allows it
It's quite strange (for Swiss precision): ticket has a cost of 12SF or 9€, but if you enter a 10€ bill you get back 1SF ! :)
Lortnoc - May 16, 2007 3:49 am - Hasn't voted
Re: faster accessThanks! I have incorporated your tip in the text.
sararickt - May 27, 2011 5:56 am - Hasn't voted
Continuing to the summit along the NW ridgeOn 10th July 2006 we did the whole route from the Sciora hut to the summit with a descent into Italy to the Gianetti hut. We climbed as a party of three, which was not optimal, and we took about 13 hours hut to hut. In the upper section, marked Red on my image of the Gemelli we chose to leave the ridge using an obvious break as a traverse line. This led into an area of more broken rock and less pleasant climbing. We had to traverse back across poorly protected but easy IV+ slabs, and were relieved to find the long stride pitch and it's old ladder of pegs as an indication we were properly back on route.
Note the route was not (2006)equipped beyond the top of the Flatiron except for occasional pegs and slings.
Later, back in the Sciora hut, we were told the last party that had done the whole route had made the same detour. We got the impression that the full route wasn't very popular, maybe one ascent a year or so.