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MichaelJ - Aug 22, 2005 4:13 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI followed this route description (ie, climb a chimney) and when I came to the impasse I saw an open book around a corner and a crack to the left. Since I was looking for a chimney, I took the crack, which was more direct. It was fun but a bit burly. Reading other sources afterwards (Secor, et al) I learned that the open book IS the easy way around the impasse and that the crack goes at 5.9. There is NO chimney on this route. Since this is the crux of the climb, it seems rather important to get the beta right and note the variation.
Romain - Aug 23, 2005 2:17 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentPorcella and Burns call it a chimney, and that's probably where I saw that description. My recollection of the spot is hazy because I did not lead that particular pitch. But I will change the description. Thanks for the input.