There are three exits to the upper buttress (from the Winter Route Notch). Since the chimney of the Beckey-Bjornstad route (after the tension traverse or 5.9) is extremely ugly off width climbing (especially with pack) two much cleaner (but bit harder) alternatives exist. The first one (and better one) goes straight up from the tension traverse on the B.B. route. Instead of tensioning (or 5.9) into the gully, climb the steep and great looking (5.8+) hand crack above. Full pitch of this gets you to the top of the buttress and 300 feet of scramblimg (4th) gets you to the plateau. The second variation goes from the same tension traverse point, but traverses left about 15 feet and climbs up on 5.8 face and arete for about 30-40 feet. Higher up, you reach 60-80 foot chimney which is about 3 feet wide, but incredibly smooth. Weird slittering up this (5.8) gets you to the same spot as the hand crack variation.
BTW. The South Face can be an incredible climb in winter. Leave your skis at the base to be picked up later and climb the route in the middle of winter. Since the route is South facing, it has sun on it even in mid winter. You might need crampons and ice axe, but the almost 3,000 foot wall is unforgetable experience in winter time. You might have to bivy on this one. Descent via the East Ledges back to Tuttle Creek.
"Weird slittering" that's great! You forgot to mention "no pro"! I ended up on this because we started in the wrong place on the upper buttress. Not being able to find the bolt at the start of the traverse was my first clue. This nasty gullet with a chockstone on top was unnecessary confirmation!
Hi Steve: Sorry to respond this late, PC problems kept me off the air. There is NO BOLT at the start of the "tension traverse" (if that's what you describe in your post), the traverse is off a stopper in a crack about 8 feet above the start of the traverse. After the tension traverse, the leader climbs about 40-50 feet up a gully so the second can remove the pro and climb on "top rope".
asmrz - Jun 23, 2005 6:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThere are three exits to the upper buttress (from the Winter Route Notch). Since the chimney of the Beckey-Bjornstad route (after the tension traverse or 5.9) is extremely ugly off width climbing (especially with pack) two much cleaner (but bit harder) alternatives exist. The first one (and better one) goes straight up from the tension traverse on the B.B. route. Instead of tensioning (or 5.9) into the gully, climb the steep and great looking (5.8+) hand crack above. Full pitch of this gets you to the top of the buttress and 300 feet of scramblimg (4th) gets you to the plateau. The second variation goes from the same tension traverse point, but traverses left about 15 feet and climbs up on 5.8 face and arete for about 30-40 feet. Higher up, you reach 60-80 foot chimney which is about 3 feet wide, but incredibly smooth. Weird slittering up this (5.8) gets you to the same spot as the hand crack variation.
BTW. The South Face can be an incredible climb in winter. Leave your skis at the base to be picked up later and climb the route in the middle of winter. Since the route is South facing, it has sun on it even in mid winter. You might need crampons and ice axe, but the almost 3,000 foot wall is unforgetable experience in winter time. You might have to bivy on this one. Descent via the East Ledges back to Tuttle Creek.
Steve Larson - Jun 5, 2006 8:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Route Comment"Weird slittering" that's great! You forgot to mention "no pro"! I ended up on this because we started in the wrong place on the upper buttress. Not being able to find the bolt at the start of the traverse was my first clue. This nasty gullet with a chockstone on top was unnecessary confirmation!
asmrz - Jun 19, 2006 3:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentsHi Steve: Sorry to respond this late, PC problems kept me off the air. There is NO BOLT at the start of the "tension traverse" (if that's what you describe in your post), the traverse is off a stopper in a crack about 8 feet above the start of the traverse. After the tension traverse, the leader climbs about 40-50 feet up a gully so the second can remove the pro and climb on "top rope".