Craig's info. on route page is dead on. Only addition I can make is the fact that all belay and lead bolts have been replaced by ASCA in 2002 (acc. to Supertopo). They're all very new, very nice, and very confidence-inspiring. Belay ledge in the notch has a 2-bolt anchor; belay on Salathe ledge has a 3-bolt anchor; top of spire has about 6 bolts.
For aiding the P1 upper OW section (goes free at 5.10 I think?), used up to #5 Friend and #4 Camalot. P2 begins by clipping a bolt at the left edge of Salathe Ledge and then you can reach up and clip a "shoelace" (old, well-weathered) sling on some ancient peg. This is the start of the crux (C2?) terrain. From here you can either stick-clip a bolt about 12-15 feet up (that's what I did) or make one or two sketchy/shallow groove placements to reach it. The crux is not over at the bolt. From here, the route traverses straight left (bomber 0.75-1" cam) and then up. You can spot two hangerless bolts from here. Given that they only protrude <0.25 inches from the rock, you're done cheating your way through with the clip stick. As far as I could tell, next 1-2 placements were mandatory C1+/C2. One was the smallest Alien with 2 out of 4 lobes contacting the rock, the other was a hook placement. The only hook I had with me was the tiny one recommended by Supertopo. I wish I had one about twice as big - it would've been bomber and totally stress-free.
Gear-wise, did not place any nuts (other than using them as hangers on hangerless bolts). Cams, cams, cams - from smallest Alien up to #4 Camalot. Radios are a good idea (falls next door tend to get loud).
rpc - Jun 9, 2004 4:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Route CommentCraig's info. on route page is dead on. Only addition I can make is the fact that all belay and lead bolts have been replaced by ASCA in 2002 (acc. to Supertopo). They're all very new, very nice, and very confidence-inspiring. Belay ledge in the notch has a 2-bolt anchor; belay on Salathe ledge has a 3-bolt anchor; top of spire has about 6 bolts.
For aiding the P1 upper OW section (goes free at 5.10 I think?), used up to #5 Friend and #4 Camalot. P2 begins by clipping a bolt at the left edge of Salathe Ledge and then you can reach up and clip a "shoelace" (old, well-weathered) sling on some ancient peg. This is the start of the crux (C2?) terrain. From here you can either stick-clip a bolt about 12-15 feet up (that's what I did) or make one or two sketchy/shallow groove placements to reach it. The crux is not over at the bolt. From here, the route traverses straight left (bomber 0.75-1" cam) and then up. You can spot two hangerless bolts from here. Given that they only protrude <0.25 inches from the rock, you're done cheating your way through with the clip stick. As far as I could tell, next 1-2 placements were mandatory C1+/C2. One was the smallest Alien with 2 out of 4 lobes contacting the rock, the other was a hook placement. The only hook I had with me was the tiny one recommended by Supertopo. I wish I had one about twice as big - it would've been bomber and totally stress-free.
Gear-wise, did not place any nuts (other than using them as hangers on hangerless bolts). Cams, cams, cams - from smallest Alien up to #4 Camalot. Radios are a good idea (falls next door tend to get loud).