The route is not technical but far from a walkup. The first part consists of an uphill on scree, swinging right to bypass a light-colored crag. Then to the ridge and a rock step, solid class 3 at least and high enough for a fall to break bones. Above that is a maze of crumbling crags and steep, unstable slopes of sharp-edged talus. You expend a lot of energy watching every step and making route decisions at each crag: around to the left, the right, or straight up? Which is least taxing and least likely to lead to a dead end? In general, bypass obstacles on the ridge to the left. The descent is slow and prone to rockfall. I downclimbed the rock step rather than take my chances down one of the steep gullies. Only after that can one relax.
We climbed Leatherman Peak from the SW face. Rolling rocks down avalanche chutes were a hazard, just wanted to make other climbers aware. Be careful and have fun!!
The route discribed is the West Ridge, not the Southwest Face. Look at your map. The Southwest face climbs 1000 feet of scree followed by a gully on the right side of the SW face. The gully gets progressively steeper. The last 20 feet are almost vertical and rotten. Then exit right to the E ridge about 100 feet below the summit. The steep part is pretty scary because the rock is very loose and a fall at the crux would have serious consequences.
doug rice - Sep 14, 2005 6:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe route is not technical but far from a walkup. The first part consists of an uphill on scree, swinging right to bypass a light-colored crag. Then to the ridge and a rock step, solid class 3 at least and high enough for a fall to break bones. Above that is a maze of crumbling crags and steep, unstable slopes of sharp-edged talus. You expend a lot of energy watching every step and making route decisions at each crag: around to the left, the right, or straight up? Which is least taxing and least likely to lead to a dead end? In general, bypass obstacles on the ridge to the left. The descent is slow and prone to rockfall. I downclimbed the rock step rather than take my chances down one of the steep gullies. Only after that can one relax.
rok_doc - Nov 13, 2005 10:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentWe climbed Leatherman Peak from the SW face. Rolling rocks down avalanche chutes were a hazard, just wanted to make other climbers aware. Be careful and have fun!!
pmcgrane - Aug 16, 2006 12:14 am - Hasn't voted
Wrong RouteThe route discribed is the West Ridge, not the Southwest Face. Look at your map. The Southwest face climbs 1000 feet of scree followed by a gully on the right side of the SW face. The gully gets progressively steeper. The last 20 feet are almost vertical and rotten. Then exit right to the E ridge about 100 feet below the summit. The steep part is pretty scary because the rock is very loose and a fall at the crux would have serious consequences.