My son and I climbed this two days ago, using two 60m half ropes.
I was nervous about the descent after reading many bad accounts of it, but I availed myself of some good advice I came across in the process.
Here is what we did:
From the top, a 2-rope rap to the top of P2. There are now rap bolts there, and I anchored myself there, as far away from the face as I could get, and pulled from there to prevent the knot from getting stuck. Then, as the rope was about to pass through, I yanked as high and hard as I could, and the rope came down clean.
We repeated this from P2 to the P1 ledge. That time, the loose side did hang on a flake, but it pulled easily and then came down clean. Same story for the last rap. Maybe we got lucky, but it seems others pulling from far back also had little or no trouble.
One thing I didn't do but do recommend is saddlebagging the rope. Because i didn't, I spent a lot of time on the second and third raps freeing the strands from numerous flakes and chickenheads.
Bob Sihler - Mar 21, 2019 8:51 pm - Hasn't voted
DescentMy son and I climbed this two days ago, using two 60m half ropes.
I was nervous about the descent after reading many bad accounts of it, but I availed myself of some good advice I came across in the process.
Here is what we did:
From the top, a 2-rope rap to the top of P2. There are now rap bolts there, and I anchored myself there, as far away from the face as I could get, and pulled from there to prevent the knot from getting stuck. Then, as the rope was about to pass through, I yanked as high and hard as I could, and the rope came down clean.
We repeated this from P2 to the P1 ledge. That time, the loose side did hang on a flake, but it pulled easily and then came down clean. Same story for the last rap. Maybe we got lucky, but it seems others pulling from far back also had little or no trouble.
One thing I didn't do but do recommend is saddlebagging the rope. Because i didn't, I spent a lot of time on the second and third raps freeing the strands from numerous flakes and chickenheads.