Masherbrum 7821m was climbed back in 6th and 8th July 1960 by two American
Bell Clinch and his friend with Akhtar a Pakistani from South East Face.
Since then it took 23 years before a second ascent made by the Japanese
Kakeyasu Minamura and Masuhino Nomura in August 1983. Another Japanese
expedition in 1985 climbed the impressive and most beautiful North West
Ridge and North Face.
Masherbrum also called K1 name by British survey team in 1856 while
sequencely naming the peaks in Karakoram Range local name of this beautiful
peak is Masherbrum. The normal route to Masherbrum Peak 7821 meters is from
Hushey Valley of Baltistan. A two days walk from Hushe will bring you the
green meadow of Masherbrum Base Camp at 3500m
Masherbrum standard route is from South East and has 4 high altitude
camps. Take a direct line up the icefall and then climb the crest of the
Dome ridge, rather than taking the skirt the icefall on the right and making
a long traverse to the Dome and to its top. This way one would rid of the
dangerous avalanche on the traverse. Camp 1 is at an altitude of 5,000
meters on the plateau between a rocky outcrop that guards the icefall on the
left and the Dome, follow the icefall, the icefall can be seen as consisting
of three giant steps. First can be climb by the middle, bearing right at its
top. Second camp 2 is at 6100m on the huge plateau behind the Dome. Camp 3
is at 6600m under the summit pyramid. The last Camp 4 is at 7200m.
Since then many mountaineers from all over the world tried their luck
including Satoshi Kawahara and Lev Loffe Russian /American team. Lev Loffe
originate from Russia now teaching in America a regular visitor to Pakistan
tried this peak from Normal route in 1996 from Hushe valley and manage to
reach 7200m, I was part of his 1996 expedition as a Liaison Officer. Lev
Loffe again return in 1999.In the same season of 1996 a Pakistani Army
expedition manage to reach the summit of Masherbrum II 7806m with the help
of high altitude porters, their base camp was two hours down from our main
base camp.
Thank you for the great information about Masherbrum. I have noted that this article was written in 2007. There are so many changes took place during the last 12 years period.
For 2019, Royalty fee for Masherbrum is, USD $2400 for 7 members group, USD $ 300 Per additional person.
Environment Fee/Waste Management Fee will be 68 US$ for each member of mountaineering expedition.
Currency: Pakistani Rupee.
141.60 Rps = 1 US$ in April 2019.
Flight from Islamabad To Skardu is very frequent. Pakistan International Airline is operating an Airbus PK451on daily basis. From Islamabad To Skardu is now only 20-22 Hours drive via Babusar Pass or via Karakoram Highway.
It would be wise to contact a local Tour Operator to organise the trip, Documentations and get up to date information. One of the oldest and Government licence Tour Operator from Skardu is Trango Adventure. they will be happy to provide the Latest and up to date informations. info@trangoadventure.com
https://www.trangoadventure.com
Recently the trekking fee is increased and now one has to pay 150 dollars per person to get a trekking permit to climb below 6500 peaks. Additionally you need to pay Central Karakoram National Park fee too.
For climbing above 6500 meters in any region you need to pay 200 dollars per person for Central Karakoram National Park fee. other then peak royalty fee.
aaporik - Oct 8, 2009 12:50 am - Voted 9/10
Climbing HistoryMasherbrum
7821 SE Face
Masherbrum 7821m was climbed back in 6th and 8th July 1960 by two American
Bell Clinch and his friend with Akhtar a Pakistani from South East Face.
Since then it took 23 years before a second ascent made by the Japanese
Kakeyasu Minamura and Masuhino Nomura in August 1983. Another Japanese
expedition in 1985 climbed the impressive and most beautiful North West
Ridge and North Face.
Masherbrum also called K1 name by British survey team in 1856 while
sequencely naming the peaks in Karakoram Range local name of this beautiful
peak is Masherbrum. The normal route to Masherbrum Peak 7821 meters is from
Hushey Valley of Baltistan. A two days walk from Hushe will bring you the
green meadow of Masherbrum Base Camp at 3500m
Masherbrum standard route is from South East and has 4 high altitude
camps. Take a direct line up the icefall and then climb the crest of the
Dome ridge, rather than taking the skirt the icefall on the right and making
a long traverse to the Dome and to its top. This way one would rid of the
dangerous avalanche on the traverse. Camp 1 is at an altitude of 5,000
meters on the plateau between a rocky outcrop that guards the icefall on the
left and the Dome, follow the icefall, the icefall can be seen as consisting
of three giant steps. First can be climb by the middle, bearing right at its
top. Second camp 2 is at 6100m on the huge plateau behind the Dome. Camp 3
is at 6600m under the summit pyramid. The last Camp 4 is at 7200m.
Since then many mountaineers from all over the world tried their luck
including Satoshi Kawahara and Lev Loffe Russian /American team. Lev Loffe
originate from Russia now teaching in America a regular visitor to Pakistan
tried this peak from Normal route in 1996 from Hushe valley and manage to
reach 7200m, I was part of his 1996 expedition as a Liaison Officer. Lev
Loffe again return in 1999.In the same season of 1996 a Pakistani Army
expedition manage to reach the summit of Masherbrum II 7806m with the help
of high altitude porters, their base camp was two hours down from our main
base camp.
Shahid Hussain - Apr 20, 2019 4:14 am - Hasn't voted
updated informationThank you for the great information about Masherbrum. I have noted that this article was written in 2007. There are so many changes took place during the last 12 years period.
For 2019, Royalty fee for Masherbrum is, USD $2400 for 7 members group, USD $ 300 Per additional person.
Environment Fee/Waste Management Fee will be 68 US$ for each member of mountaineering expedition.
Currency: Pakistani Rupee.
141.60 Rps = 1 US$ in April 2019.
Flight from Islamabad To Skardu is very frequent. Pakistan International Airline is operating an Airbus PK451on daily basis. From Islamabad To Skardu is now only 20-22 Hours drive via Babusar Pass or via Karakoram Highway.
It would be wise to contact a local Tour Operator to organise the trip, Documentations and get up to date information. One of the oldest and Government licence Tour Operator from Skardu is Trango Adventure. they will be happy to provide the Latest and up to date informations. info@trangoadventure.com
https://www.trangoadventure.com
aaporik - Oct 26, 2021 9:52 pm - Voted 9/10
Masherbrum AreaRecently the trekking fee is increased and now one has to pay 150 dollars per person to get a trekking permit to climb below 6500 peaks. Additionally you need to pay Central Karakoram National Park fee too.
For climbing above 6500 meters in any region you need to pay 200 dollars per person for Central Karakoram National Park fee. other then peak royalty fee.