If you follow the trail past 'Where the wild things are' around the bend and up the hill you'll find this gem of a climb. Originally climbed in the 70's with gear and a few sketchy bolts (still there...clip them if you dare) by H.Swartz it followed a slightly different line. It was reworked in 2005 by M.Reburn and P.Valiulis and is now a wonderful challenging cruxy beauty that can make even hard men cry. You feel like your stepping into the big blue. Worth the walk.
Hey Meghanne - thanks for the feedback. I'm not entirely sure where you mean though. Is this the last climb that I've called "unknown" (the 10d) or is it another line between that one and "Where the wild things are"? Write me back and give me a bit better beta on where the climb is, and I'll add it in right away. I was at the Rock Gardens today (30C) - fun day.
Aaron
Hi Aaron. I wish I was there but am stuck in the wilds of Onscario delivering babies and fighting off the black flies. Anyway, this route is way past the last climb you are calling unknown (which I think is a Dave Marra route). When your at the bottom of gully you follow the rock as it wraps around a corner. Follow the rock past some convoluted and broken bits. Keep looking up, this route starts above a big tree that is leaning downhill and has a fresh'ish' war wound from a big piece of rock I cleaned off the route. It is out there all on its own but worth the walk. I hope this helps.
Meghanne
Hi Aaron, Dana and I added an alternate start to Fairy Godmothers Slipper at the Rock Gardens. We added two bolts making a total of nine clips. It climbs really nicely and we both think that the route is one of the best at the gardens. This start just makes it a bit more 'agreeable'.
Hope you're out there putting up some routes.
Take care.
Sean
Hey Sean. I've been out of touch with the climbing world lately. I tore my rotator cuff and need surgery on my shoulder. I won't be able to climb until at least next spring, so my motivation to update has been lacking. I'll try to get to it sometime in the next week. Cheers!
Meghanne - May 17, 2008 9:24 am - Hasn't voted
Yo Yo aka Into the Big Blue** (bolts) 11.bIf you follow the trail past 'Where the wild things are' around the bend and up the hill you'll find this gem of a climb. Originally climbed in the 70's with gear and a few sketchy bolts (still there...clip them if you dare) by H.Swartz it followed a slightly different line. It was reworked in 2005 by M.Reburn and P.Valiulis and is now a wonderful challenging cruxy beauty that can make even hard men cry. You feel like your stepping into the big blue. Worth the walk.
AJones - May 17, 2008 9:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Yo Yo aka Into the Big Blue** (bolts) 11.bHey Meghanne - thanks for the feedback. I'm not entirely sure where you mean though. Is this the last climb that I've called "unknown" (the 10d) or is it another line between that one and "Where the wild things are"? Write me back and give me a bit better beta on where the climb is, and I'll add it in right away. I was at the Rock Gardens today (30C) - fun day.
Aaron
Meghanne - May 17, 2008 10:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Yo Yo aka Into the Big Blue** (bolts) 11.bHi Aaron. I wish I was there but am stuck in the wilds of Onscario delivering babies and fighting off the black flies. Anyway, this route is way past the last climb you are calling unknown (which I think is a Dave Marra route). When your at the bottom of gully you follow the rock as it wraps around a corner. Follow the rock past some convoluted and broken bits. Keep looking up, this route starts above a big tree that is leaning downhill and has a fresh'ish' war wound from a big piece of rock I cleaned off the route. It is out there all on its own but worth the walk. I hope this helps.
Meghanne
SElliott - May 29, 2008 12:11 am - Hasn't voted
Fairy Godmothers SlipperHi Aaron, Dana and I added an alternate start to Fairy Godmothers Slipper at the Rock Gardens. We added two bolts making a total of nine clips. It climbs really nicely and we both think that the route is one of the best at the gardens. This start just makes it a bit more 'agreeable'.
Hope you're out there putting up some routes.
Take care.
Sean
SElliott - May 29, 2008 12:13 am - Hasn't voted
alsoIt clocks in at a Rock Gardens 5.11d.
S
SElliott - May 30, 2008 6:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Rock GardensHello again Aaron, just noticed that Rapid Hand Movement and High Boltage are mixed up on your topo. High Boltage is to the left of RHM.
S
AJones - Jul 4, 2008 10:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Rock GardensHey Sean. I've been out of touch with the climbing world lately. I tore my rotator cuff and need surgery on my shoulder. I won't be able to climb until at least next spring, so my motivation to update has been lacking. I'll try to get to it sometime in the next week. Cheers!