Depending on the season and snow conditions, I'd say 3 long screws and 4 pickets (distributed) would be ideal.
Also, we camped at 7400, above the high camp which provided more time in the morning to get to the foot of the climb as the sun was coming up and off the glacier before it got too sloppy and warm.
onerichards - Aug 13, 2014 7:26 pm - Hasn't voted
pickets vs screwsDepending on the season and snow conditions, I'd say 3 long screws and 4 pickets (distributed) would be ideal.
Also, we camped at 7400, above the high camp which provided more time in the morning to get to the foot of the climb as the sun was coming up and off the glacier before it got too sloppy and warm.
chrisc - Jul 9, 2022 5:55 pm - Hasn't voted
July 2022 Trip Report + BetaWe used 5 pickets and zero screws (but I would still carry screws). We left 1 picket behind when rapping into a crevasse.
Full July 2022 trip report and beta here