Just wondering... Why, if cold was the main issue, did you get such an early start toward the summit? Climbing in CO, you get used to starting early to avoid PM storms, but that doesn't look like somewhere that sees many clouds.
Anyways, great TR. The ripoff permit prices for Aconcagua had led me to look at Ojos de Salado, but... I think I'll stop at just reading about it.
Summit day is usually 12-14 hours, so an early start is best. Also, there is one icefield to cross that is easier to cross when frozen.
I guess I should elaborate more about the wind. It was so strong that it was constantly blowing dust and pea sized rocks into our faces.
If you do ever have an interest in climbing Ojos, supposedly the Argentina side is more scenic. I don't know if I'd recommend the Chilean side as there are many more beautiful mountains in the Andes.
If Aconcagua is too expensive, fairly nearby are Tupungato or Mercedario, which are said to be really nice and similar (without the crowds) climbs.
From your photos, things looked so dry that I couldn't imagine there being any significant snow that needed to be crossed early (vs. bare ice, where temperatures doesn't matter so much). But I hear you about the wind -- constant, face-blasting, eyeball-freezing wind can be incredibly demotivating.
I checked out the Argentine routes on SP, but the Chilean one looks like a more feasible dayhike. ;-)
That's where we turned around however, so we never did cross it.
Here is a better close up photo of the "glacier" that is crossed on the standard route too (though I think that it may have been a little smaller when we were there? I'm not sure since we turned back just short of crossing it):
Here's a picture that shows it right near the center of the peak (though it looks smaller than it is). You can zoom in and see the faint trail on either side:
I can see if I have a better picture if you are interested.
I believe there are a few routes around the icefield, but most people prefer walking on the ice than on the scree.
Although the wind was very strong when we were there, it is usually even stronger in the afternoon. We knew that the chances of summitting during the three day windstorm were small, but we just wanted to see how high we could get. The Russian forecast said winds of 160 kph on the summit, but they weren't that strong where we were. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe up to 70 mph/110 kph?
Interesting Trip Report, and good call on the retreat.
I hiked up the Big A (Aconcagua) I think in 2004. It is butt ugly - can't see why people would enjoy it - so I agree with your description! A few thoughts however:
* The airfare is the big cost - after that nothing matters as much, unless you hire a guide service.
* The Big A is sort of crowded, sort of isn't - once you get up high, it's not.
* The traditional wisdom I think is terrible - sleeping high is a terrible experience (as you describe), saps your health and energy, and is dangerous.
* We took the bus from Mendoza and walked up to Base Camp the first day, organized our stuff the second while staying in the weird refugio, got up early and hiked to the summit and were back in time for dinner and a glass of wine on the 3rd day. The 4th day we were drinking beer in Mendoza, the 5th we were partying in Buenos Aires, the 6th day we were in Patagonia. This I think is the way to do it.
* We used oversized nylon running shoes with chemical heat packets, no ice axes, no tents, no stoves, and definitely Kahtoola crampons and trekking poles. Worked great. Ojos is longer, so camping gear may be needed.
* In short, trudging up these mountains with heavy gear and sleeping high is a major PITA, as you described well - I would have turned back also.
Thank you for posting your TR! Sorry for windy cold conditions. Your son is amazing!
We would like to climb Llullaillaco later next year and I was thinking about Ojos. Did you find the transportation with Fernando arriving to Copiapo? Would you recommend him? It was nice to find out that you are from Colorado. Even though I came from Czech I enjoy opportunities to train here for Andes. We really enjoyed lower mountains in Chile, Volcan San Jose and Licancabur, so I'm curious how it compares as far as cold and wind...
seano - Feb 8, 2016 6:19 pm - Voted 10/10
Why so early?Just wondering... Why, if cold was the main issue, did you get such an early start toward the summit? Climbing in CO, you get used to starting early to avoid PM storms, but that doesn't look like somewhere that sees many clouds.
Anyways, great TR. The ripoff permit prices for Aconcagua had led me to look at Ojos de Salado, but... I think I'll stop at just reading about it.
Scott - Feb 8, 2016 7:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Why so early?Summit day is usually 12-14 hours, so an early start is best. Also, there is one icefield to cross that is easier to cross when frozen.
I guess I should elaborate more about the wind. It was so strong that it was constantly blowing dust and pea sized rocks into our faces.
If you do ever have an interest in climbing Ojos, supposedly the Argentina side is more scenic. I don't know if I'd recommend the Chilean side as there are many more beautiful mountains in the Andes.
If Aconcagua is too expensive, fairly nearby are Tupungato or Mercedario, which are said to be really nice and similar (without the crowds) climbs.
seano - Feb 9, 2016 3:35 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Why so early?From your photos, things looked so dry that I couldn't imagine there being any significant snow that needed to be crossed early (vs. bare ice, where temperatures doesn't matter so much). But I hear you about the wind -- constant, face-blasting, eyeball-freezing wind can be incredibly demotivating.
I checked out the Argentine routes on SP, but the Chilean one looks like a more feasible dayhike. ;-)
Scott - Feb 9, 2016 4:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Why so early?The icefield (called a glacier, but it doesn't appear to have crevasses) is just to right of the photo below:
Photo
That's where we turned around however, so we never did cross it.
Here is a better close up photo of the "glacier" that is crossed on the standard route too (though I think that it may have been a little smaller when we were there? I'm not sure since we turned back just short of crossing it):
"Glacier"
Here's a picture that shows it right near the center of the peak (though it looks smaller than it is). You can zoom in and see the faint trail on either side:
Photo
I can see if I have a better picture if you are interested.
I believe there are a few routes around the icefield, but most people prefer walking on the ice than on the scree.
Although the wind was very strong when we were there, it is usually even stronger in the afternoon. We knew that the chances of summitting during the three day windstorm were small, but we just wanted to see how high we could get. The Russian forecast said winds of 160 kph on the summit, but they weren't that strong where we were. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe up to 70 mph/110 kph?
adventurer - Feb 9, 2016 4:56 pm - Hasn't voted
A Great Adventure!Nice TR and what I'm sure will be remembered by your son as a great adventure with his Dad.
bbolder - Feb 11, 2016 10:45 pm - Hasn't voted
High Andes TacticsInteresting Trip Report, and good call on the retreat.
I hiked up the Big A (Aconcagua) I think in 2004. It is butt ugly - can't see why people would enjoy it - so I agree with your description! A few thoughts however:
* The airfare is the big cost - after that nothing matters as much, unless you hire a guide service.
* The Big A is sort of crowded, sort of isn't - once you get up high, it's not.
* The traditional wisdom I think is terrible - sleeping high is a terrible experience (as you describe), saps your health and energy, and is dangerous.
* We took the bus from Mendoza and walked up to Base Camp the first day, organized our stuff the second while staying in the weird refugio, got up early and hiked to the summit and were back in time for dinner and a glass of wine on the 3rd day. The 4th day we were drinking beer in Mendoza, the 5th we were partying in Buenos Aires, the 6th day we were in Patagonia. This I think is the way to do it.
* We used oversized nylon running shoes with chemical heat packets, no ice axes, no tents, no stoves, and definitely Kahtoola crampons and trekking poles. Worked great. Ojos is longer, so camping gear may be needed.
* In short, trudging up these mountains with heavy gear and sleeping high is a major PITA, as you described well - I would have turned back also.
Scott - Feb 11, 2016 11:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: High Andes TacticsThanks for the comments/tips!
* The airfare is the big cost - after that nothing matters as much, unless you hire a guide service.
If you don't know already, the permit for high season for Aconcagua is now ~$1,300 US per person! It has gone up in recent years.
It sounds like you made it up very fast. Did you do some acclimatization hikes first?
collardr - Dec 20, 2016 3:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Question for logisticsThank you for posting your TR! Sorry for windy cold conditions. Your son is amazing!
We would like to climb Llullaillaco later next year and I was thinking about Ojos. Did you find the transportation with Fernando arriving to Copiapo? Would you recommend him? It was nice to find out that you are from Colorado. Even though I came from Czech I enjoy opportunities to train here for Andes. We really enjoyed lower mountains in Chile, Volcan San Jose and Licancabur, so I'm curious how it compares as far as cold and wind...