Martin Cash - May 13, 2004 11:34 am - Voted 10/10
Interesting formationIs there a guidebook that covers all this out of the way stuff you climb?
Fred and I decided against Athabasca, because of over a foot of new snow there. Heading over to Snoqualmie Pass to try the Improbable Traverse Direct Variation on the west face of Guye Peak (an 7 or 8 pitch 5.8). Looks awesome, I'm psyched! Where are you guys headed?
rpc - May 13, 2004 12:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formationHey Martin,
Thinking about S. Butt. on Cutthroat. Have been encouraged by the recent photo submissions (2 wks. old) showing SEWS rock in pretty good condition. Pls. post photos of that climb as it is something we've been wanting to try (there's a climb report on this I think on mountainwerks.org page).
On the guidebook issue, see the main page for this formation (guide by G. Orton is the best choice for SW Oregon); also, for a taste of SW Oregon climbing, check out www.climbsworegon.com.
The weather forecast's looking decent at this point - hope it holds! Good luck man!
rpc - May 13, 2004 12:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formation....I wasn't clear - I meant to ask you to post photos of your Guye Peak climb of course (not Cutthroat :).
rpc - May 17, 2004 1:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formationDid you do it?
Vision of snow on S. Buttress of Cutthroat made us head back to Leavenworth (can't seem to get enough of that place now).
Martin Cash - May 17, 2004 1:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Interesting formationNope, rain moved in early morning. We did Givler's, and (2) 3 pitch trad routes at Peshastin on Saturday, then 2 routes at Vantage Sunday, before heading home because of rain.
What did you climb at 11worth?
rpc - May 17, 2004 1:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formationhmmmm, we must've just passed each other on Saturday. We did this 3 pitch route called (not sure) Lightning Bolt Crack at Peshastin. Then went and did Canary (AWSOME route!! Loved it!!!). On Sunday we did Orbit on Snow Cr. Wall - quite fun (thought it was pretty hard for an .8).
Martin Cash - May 17, 2004 2:29 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Interesting formationWow, nice climbing! Yeah, Orbit is 5.8+ and sustained in Selected Climbs.
That is so funny. Fred and I climbed Lightning Crack at Peshastin too. We were there at about 4:30 - 6:00PM. Didn't see you. How did you like the last pitch? Man, that was some nice jamming!
rpc - May 17, 2004 4:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formationAhhh, we were there probably 10-1ish I think, went over to Castle after that. That WAS a nice crack on the 3rd pitch. The starting moves of the 3rd pitch (with that big loose block) reminded me of climbs at Smith. Also noticed how little friction slab climbing experience we have (fun 1st pitch).
Was thinking of putting up Snow Creek Wall, but I'd be more than happy to hand over that task to you if you'd like :) ? Let me know.
Martin Cash - May 17, 2004 4:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Interesting formationHaven't climbed at Snow Creek Wall yet. Would love to see a page. Go for it. I'll contribute to it when I climb there.
I'll do a page for Castle Rock tomorrow. You can add Canary to it.
Should we flip a coin on Grand Central Tower? I only have 4 photos from that one. Maybe you should put it up, and I'll add to it.
Cheers,
Martin
rpc - May 17, 2004 5:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting formationHey Martin,
it's all yours the Grand Central Tower - and I think you should definitely be the one to put it up since we've only climbed there once. Wondering if it might be better to have just one page for Peshastin Pinnacles? Maybe too many routes?? What do you think. Anyway, I'm hoping YOU'll put up a page for it (whatever format).
BTW, think Orbit would be right up your alley - I know you've been leading .9's on trad (perhaps higher) --> you'd find it an enjoyable, probably a mostly relaxing outing :)
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