One for the Road

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.10-
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

One for the RoadBrushy approach.
This route is on the southwest corner of the Great White Throne. Get off the shuttle at the Grotto stop and walk up canyon past by the picnic area. Once you get to the creek, pick up the trail along the creek. Go up creek for short distance and leave the creek hike uphill towards the wall. If you go too far along the creek you will need to backtrack through brush which would be a pain. The trail, if you can call it one, goes through brush and all kind of other nasty stuff. It was one of the harder approaches in the canyon, there maybe a better way, feedback is welcome.

Route Description

One for the Road
The route starts with a wide section and footholds that crumble under your weight. A hard stemming move and strenuous finger crack gets you out of the alcove. From here the crack is mostly thin hands with insecure jams and poor feet. Higher up there is some kind of an offwidth where you have to get creative choosing your move to get above it. The route has brushes growing in places where you want to jam. The route is in the shade in the morning and goes into the sun in the afternoon.

Essential Gear

Set of TCUs, a #3 or #2 camalot for the start, for the rest of the route gear up to #1 camalot. Doubles on #0.5 and 0.75, three or four #1 camalots. One 60m rope is sufficient.

Geography