jhalz - Jan 14, 2003 10:40 am - Hasn't voted
St.Helens Winter BetaLove the photos of your St.Helens trip, truely inspirational. Just wondering if you've got any additional beta that I'm not going to get from my book, Climbing Cascade Volcanos. Anything would be helpful.
Jason
rpc - Jan 14, 2003 11:14 am - Hasn't voted
Re: St.Helens Winter BetaJason,
thanks for the kind remarks!
I guess it depends on when you're thinking of climbing St. Helens.
"Summertime" route (Monitor Ridge) is really a hike when there's not much snow; if there's snow on it, ice ax + crampons are a good idea. The route is doable as long as the access road is not snowed over (we were able to do it in perfect weather on 12/7/02).
The "Winter" route (Worm Flows) starts from a snow park (need snow park permit). It's kind of a long slog (again bring crampons + ice ax as it gets a bit steep near the top) so get an early start. The route is described in a book "Oregon Snow Shoe Routes" (check out St. Helens page here at SP). We broke up the trip by overnighting somewhere above Chocolate Falls (just above timber). This way you can get a leisurely start on say Saturday and then get up at dawn on Sunday for the summit climb. There's usually a nicely beaten path from the snow park to timberline. Once you emerge from timberline, the key is to take the left of two prominent ridges (it curves leftwards - it's the spot right below where we set up camp). That will bring you to Monitor Ridge just below the summit. Snowshoes & skis both work great for the ascent.
I think that's it - just need to pick up a self issued permit at Jack's Rest. on the drive in (and sign out on the drive out). Just in case you have a dog, they DO allow them on both routes.
Given good weather, both routes are very straight forward. However, if the weather should turn bad, be careful on the descent (easy to get off route).
Best of luck.
rpc
jhalz - Feb 26, 2003 9:26 am - Hasn't voted
Re: St.Helens Winter BetaThanks again for the beta on the Swift Creek/Worm Flows Route. We headed up there last sat. and sun. had a great time even though we didn't make the summit. We broke trail from the tree line to our bivy spot just above Chocolate Falls, even with snowshoes on we were sinking to mid-calf. The summit was completely socked-in sunday morning we tried to wait out the "storm " for about 45mins about 700ft below the summit, but no luck. The snow conditions were pretty ripe for slides, so we decided to play it safe. Thanks again.
Jason
rpc - Mar 5, 2003 11:05 am - Hasn't voted
Re: St.Helens Winter BetaJason,
glad to hear you guys had fun on the mountain. Don't think I have to tell you that the mountain will be there next time (though in the case of an active volcano, might have a different shape/height next time :) ) - so it's really not a big loss not to summit.
radek
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