Thanks, anyone have an answer to my crampon question?

ChristopherFranklin wrote:Thanks, anyone have an answer to my crampon question?

This crampon question?

ChristopherFranklin wrote: if I get koflachs and over boots do I need toe cap style crampons? Because I already have black diamond sabres that are clip in style.

Full auto/clip in style crampons (i.e. wire bail in front, lever in back) will always have a compromised fit with over boots. You can cut slits in the over boot for the bail and heel lever with a hot knife to improve the fit.

What over boots do you have now? If you have not purchased over boots, either don't, and go with insulated super gaiters, or buy a crampon with universal bindings. The super gaiter thing is predicated that you start Denali a little later in the season (after mid May) and you use a warm boots like Koflack Artics Extreme or Scarpa Invernos, which come with warmer inner booties than their predecessors.

Puma concolor wrote: It's just a matter of putting a good system together and field testing it before you head for Denali and Aconcagua.
+1 for field testing prior to the big event.

Puma concolor wrote:Personally, I think the insulated super-gaiters are a great option but I was strongly urged against them for some BS reason I don't even really remember.

Over boots are warmer because they cover the entire boot, whereas super gaiters lack insulation on the bottom and lower sides. I think with the advent of Intuition/closed cell foam heat moldable style liners that are pretty much stock on every warm boot these days, over boots are somewhat overkill, depending upon the time of year.

I haven't bought over boots yet. Will my sabres work with the Koflacks without over boots? Because I'm doing Aconcagua first and don't really need over boots until Denali. My concern/question is this koflachs + Denali liners + over boots + new crampons is starting to sound more expensive than LS G2 SM's, however the Koflacks would be more versatile.

Mine are pros I guess, they have the toe bail but also have a metal strap that comes up over the toe.

ChristopherFranklin wrote:I haven't bought over boots yet. Will my sabres work with the Koflacks without over boots?

They should, although the fit may not be perfect. Climbers have been known to swap out bails/heels with other boots or to bend the bail to get a precise fit.

Here are a couple of blog posts you should read:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01 ... n-fit.html
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01 ... esign.html
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/02 ... tting.html

Found this photo, I see what you mean.

Since we are on the subject of crampons and you have BD stainless steel ones:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/12 ... mpons.html
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08 ... ss-or.html
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/02 ... nless.html
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11 ... mpons.html

BTW, I know the guy who writes this blog, and he has been climbing harder for longer than just about anybody I know. He also by trade know a lot about metallurgy and manufacturing techniques. I personally have never liked any BD crampons I have seen or used. But that may be just me.

Good info, yeah when I start actual ice climbing I'll buy a real pair.

I'm looking at the Petzl Sarken but nowhere does it say what type of metal is used WTF?

I have a pair of Petzl Sarkens, they are made of long wearing cromolly steel. If I were to only own one pair, those would be it. Or the Grivel G-14. If you only own one pair, you can't go wrong with either one for all around mountaineering, ice climbing, and mixed alpine climbing. I personally have the 'New-matic', heel lever in back, basket in front. I prefer the basket/Scottish front over the wire bails, for a number of reasons, although for high end ice and mixed climbing, a WELL fitted pair of full auto are going to offer the most precise fit. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I know guys who use a crampon with a heel lever from another crampon and a bail from a third, just to get the ideal fit.

Hey one more question is there any shops in Seattle that carry mountainerin boots? I'm traveling there in August and I thought I'd try some on before I order off the web.