My wife and I are considering going to Peru to do some trekking. We're avid hikers but haven't really done any long distance treks, mainly because we haven't been to Nepal, there's no trekking in the Rockies, and when we spent a month in the Alps we found we could see a lot more spectacular scenery moving around and doing dayhikes and overnights here and there instead of committing two weeks to say Tour du Mont Blanc or Walkers Haute Route. I think it was the right decision because almost every day of our trip was spectacular, from climbing the Monch, to the Aletsch Glacier, to puttering around the mer de glace in Chamonix, to the multi day via ferrata routes in the Brenta Dolomites, etc.. the variety was amazing. Everyday was a highlight. Also I was a bit turned off at the idea of trekking to places that were accessible so many other ways. If I'm going to trek I want to go somewhere that you can't also get to by car or cable car.

So I'm just wondering if the Huayhuash trek lives up to the hype, especially to someone who's seen a lot of spectacular mountain vista's already? It's a big commitment, two weeks including travel and acclimatization. The other option is Nepal but that's an even bigger commitment, one month if we want to do something like the 3 passes loop. Has anyone here done both? How do they compare? In the Huayhuash we would do some parts of the alpine route that don't require bringing a rope, harnesses, etc.. like Trapecio Pass, but would skip the technical sections like Ransac Pass.

And finally, would it be foolish to do the trek unsupported (we would rent a sat phone). I really don't like being guided, I'm a minor control freak. And the thought of needing a whole caravan of a guide, donkey handlers, cook, and a half dozen donkeys is unappealing to to me for what is essentially a long hike. Has anyone done it on their own? How was it? Was routefinding difficult? How challenging was the altitude? We don't have any experience hiking at 4500-5000m though the Monch in the alps was a little over 4000m and wasn't a problem. The longest we've ever hiked with full camping backpacks is 3 days.

Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

That is a lot of questions. Others on here probably have more experiences but I will take a shot at it. I have never been to Nepal but have done a fair bit of trekking. I certainly think the Huayhuash are some of the most amazing mountains so I think it probably deserves to be considered on a short list of great treks. Its often hard to compare such things, but there are equivalent trekking with similar peaks in the Cordillera Blanca and also amazing trekking down in Patagonia (Torres del Paine or Fitzroy area). I think all three of those areas in South America are incredible. Having said that, there is pretty incredible stuff in New Zealand or the Canadian Rockies also.

I did the Huayhuash circuit it 2011. It is still quite a bit more remote than some other common trekking areas although access is getting better due to active mining in the area. I went with local guides and personally would not go solo although I am sure plenty of people do. There were petty theft issues at the campsites and also communication can be an issue. If you are fluent in Spanish it may not be too much of a problem but most people speak Quechua in the smaller villages. Having donkeys and a cook just makes things more pleasant- you eat better and are carrying less, not to mention giving some business to the locals. We took the lower route and I did not find if difficult but if I was carrying a pack with eight days of gear that would be quite a bit different. Altitude is a potential issue but if you spend a couple of days in Huaraz first, most people seem to do fine. There are not many route finding issues.

We did the Huayhuash Alpine Circuit in 2013, which was incredibly scenic and spectacular, like condensing the very best parts of the Blanca into an area one tenth the size. I have not yet been to Nepal, but the scale of the peaks and vistas are awe-inspiring, though you do not get the endless stacking ranges effect of a more extensive though less lofty set of mountains such as the French/Swiss Alps. The perimeter circuit takes you very close to the peaks, especially on the eastern side, and it would be easy to make forays deeper in as you like, but it is a far cry from tea house and back-packer sprinkled Nepal; there would be perhaps another three or five small guided groups as well, but there are (wonderfully) no towns, facilities or support, but the roads and trails are unmistakable. I would strongly recommend not going guided, but that is a personal preference: we saw absolutely no one during our entire trip until arriving at the three-quarters point in the hamlet of Huayhuash proper. Even the Alpine Circuit is surprisingly easy venture with only a few roped/rappelled spots

sharperblue wrote:We did the Huayhuash Alpine Circuit in 2013, which was incredibly scenic and spectacular, like condensing the very best parts of the Blanca into an area one tenth the size. I have not yet been to Nepal, but the scale of the peaks and vistas are awe-inspiring, though you do not get the endless stacking ranges effect of a more extensive though less lofty set of mountains such as the French/Swiss Alps. The perimeter circuit takes you very close to the peaks, especially on the eastern side, and it would be easy to make forays deeper in as you like, but it is a far cry from tea house and back-packer sprinkled Nepal; there would be perhaps another three or five small guided groups as well, but there are (wonderfully) no towns, facilities or support, but the roads and trails are unmistakable. I would strongly recommend not going guided, but that is a personal preference: we saw absolutely no one during our entire trip until arriving at the three-quarters point in the hamlet of Huayhuash proper. Even the Alpine Circuit is surprisingly easy venture with only a few roped/rappelled spots

Thanks, you say you haven't been to Nepal but then say the Huayhuash doesn't hold a candle to Nepal, to you just mean in terms of the size of the range or in terms of the views and experience? I'm assuming since you did the alpine circuit you backpacked the route and didn't use donkeys? How was Ransac Pass?

in terms of scale; certainly not; how could it? but it IS spectacular on a very high order, and is gloriously rugged and unsupported and rough and tumble; the real mcCoy: no teeming hordes of overly walletted twenty-somethings that's for sure! (note: i desperately wish I were one myself!) Donkeys would not be able to cross the classic alpine circuit, so no. Rasac pass was frozen steep mud and ice when we came down it (we did the alpine traverse counter-clockwise) - a bit sketchy for 100 feet or so, then just fine, but ice axe and lightweight crampons required

sharperblue wrote:in terms of scale; certainly not; how could it? but it IS spectacular on a very high order, and is gloriously rugged and unsupported and rough and tumble; the real mcCoy: no teeming hordes of overly walletted twenty-somethings that's for sure! (note: i desperately wish I were one myself!) Donkeys would not be able to cross the classic alpine circuit, so no. Rasac pass was frozen steep mud and ice when we came down it (we did the alpine traverse counter-clockwise) - a bit sketchy for 100 feet or so, then just fine, but ice axe and lightweight crampons required

What time of year did you go? I still have more research to do but was under the impression Ransac Pass required crossing a snow covered glacier with a small rappel and that rope, harness, etc.. would be required. I would like to only bring crampons and axe if i can help it, so skipping Garacocha Col because it has a rappel, and was considering skipping Ransac Pass and taking the extra day detour around using the valley trail. From what I've Trapecio Pass is straightforward dry glacier. Any beta or advice you could share would be greatly appreciated, doesn't seem like many people do the Alpine circuit

very first of August; I think we took 9 days to do the AC. You definitely do not need to rap Rasac pass, but Garacocha is absolutely two raps if doing the circuit CCWise, or you'll need a lead role for a pitch if CW. There are a few spots on the AC where you should be completely comfortable on extended sections of 4th class. The Trapercio glacier is dry, but there are a few small crevasses that could be covered in fresh snow, depending on weather. It is not a light undertaking by any means, so be careful and do your research. Check out Jeremy Frimers excellent book and website for detailed beta

sharperblue wrote:very first of August; I think we took 9 days to do the AC. You definitely do not need to rap Rasac pass, but Garacocha is absolutely two raps if doing the circuit CCWise, or you'll need a lead role for a pitch if CW. There are a few spots on the AC where you should be completely comfortable on extended sections of 4th class. The Trapercio glacier is dry, but there are a few small crevasses that could be covered in fresh snow, depending on weather. It is not a light undertaking by any means, so be careful and do your research. Check out Jeremy Frimers excellent book and website for detailed beta

Thanks, what were the trickiest parts outside of Garacocha (which we would skip) and Ransac Pass (which we may skip)? I made a google map of the route I'd like to take, starting and stopping in Quartelhuain it seems like it could be done in 6 days if we take Ransac Pass, or 7 if we have to take the valley detour through Huayllapa. Does that seem right to you? We would budget 9 days no matter what and just have those 2-3 extra days to rest, or to wait out weather, explore a bit, etc..

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zGT2xgttf64w.k13SuLV9I-iI

Jeremy recommends camping at Chaclan rather than Carhuacocha but I read on a couple of guide websites that camping is restricted at Chaclan Lake and that it is better to visit it as a sidetrip or extension of you next day. Did you camp at Chaclan?

From what I could gather from Jeremy's site, if we skip Ransac pass in favour of the extended valley slog, we could avoid bringing rope, harness, crampons, axe, etc.. since everything else would be fairly straightforward hiking or easy bits of scrambling, with Trapecio Pass being the most technical section but not requiring any gear unless we're unlucky and the glacier is not dry but if that's the case we could just head back down and take the long way around. Does that sound about right to you?

Did you scramble up Jurauaju from Trapecio Pass by any chance?

And you mentioned you did the circuit counter clockwise, it seems the "standard" route is to go clockwise, any reason why you didn't go with the flow? Does it really make a difference, and if so which direction do you recommend?

I'd like to avoid dragging a ton of gear if I can help it, even if it means adding a day to the trek, but I also don't want to get out there and think "shit, i really should have brought xyz". I've never done a week long backpacking trip much less one at altitude so I really want to pack light. Not a lot of people seem to have done the circuit so you advice is really helpful! And I'm sure this thread will help others in the future. Thanks again

That itinerary sounds just fine; and those two that you may skip are definitely the cruxes of the trip. Obviously go very light - as there are large sections with little or no trail, a badly twisted or broken ankle will be the biggest concern. No bugs, no wild animals, no bad people (no people at all) - you'll be fine. We went counter clockwise due to our schedule of where we would like to be when and at what time of day (ie, spend the mornings or evenings with sunlight on the faces at different times and aspects) and that seemed to work magnificently, but you can't go wrong in there - its all just incredible. Highly recommend you stay at the Hotel Los Nogales in Chicuian if you can - really wonderful place and people

We have done both treks- 3 passes in Everest area and Huayhuash including Paso Trapecio.
We did 3 passes by carrying all our gear ourselves, thus no sherpas pushing us to stay at their favorite teahouse and we did Huayhuash 13 days (Llamac to Llamac, with 1 day extra) by hiring local donkey driver-arriero-with 2 donkeys, to carry our loads.

We live in the Rockies and are spoilt by the lovely mountains, yet when we got back home from both trips Nepal and Huayhuash, we had very hard time to adjust. You just have the stunning mountains along every step (almost) .
3 passesThis trek we started from Jiri, and flew out of Lukla. The advantage was that we did not have to carry any food or tent. Every night was spent in the comfort of a cold teahouse with food being prepared for us.

Huayhuash- I would absolutely not want to carry the supplies and tent on this trek myself. Sure, there are people who do it, but I prefer to enjoy the views of the mountains, not to exhaust myself without much energy to look around.

Both treks are popular, Huayhuash is shorter, every day different scenery, has more lakes, we did not need any crampons etc for Paso Trapecio, it was just a high pass trail. You have to cook yourself, or have your guide cook for you.

3 Passes- high mountains everywhere you look, yaks are nice to see,too.

We have done both treks- 3 passes in Everest area and Huayhuash including Paso Trapecio.
We did 3 passes by carrying all our gear ourselves, thus no sherpas pushing us to stay at their favorite teahouse and we did Huayhuash 13 days (Llamac to Llamac, with 1 day extra) by hiring local donkey driver-arriero-with 2 donkeys, to carry our loads.

We live in the Rockies and are spoilt by the lovely mountains, yet when we got back home from both trips Nepal and Huayhuash, we had very hard time to adjust. You just have the stunning mountains along every step (almost).
3 passes this trek we started from Jiri, and flew out of Lukla. The advantage was that we did not have to carry any food or tent. Every night was spent in the comfort of a cold teahouse with food being prepared for us.

Huayhuash- I would absolutely not want to carry the supplies and tent on this trek myself. Sure, there are people who do it, but I prefer to enjoy the views of the mountains, not to exhaust myself without much energy to look around.

Both treks are popular, Huayhuash is shorter, every day different scenery has more lakes, we did not need any crampons etc. for Paso Trapecio, it was just a high pass trail. You have to cook yourself, or have your guide cook for you.

3 Passes- high mountains everywhere you look, yaks are nice to see, much longer.

I have done both treks.

Been to Peru twice and been to the Huayhuash region twice doing the lower trek. First time was with the then girlfriend and we both got sick on day three so didn't get very far. I came back a few years later and did the trek by myself carrying all my own stuff. I carried 8 days of supplies. But I'm the type to carry all my gear. Most I carried was two week's worth on a hike on the John Muir Trail. I don't recommend this.

What I remember from this region is that there's animal poop everywhere. You can't count on getting clean water below 5,000m. Filter and sterilize. Poopers from guided group go straight into the watershed. Spectacular scenery. Locals demanding payments for going through their land. Not sure what the system is like now. I was there in 2012. Routefinding was not an issue for me. Altitude wasn't an issue either but then I was climbing 6,000m peaks for a month before that. Low crowds. Feel like you are out there.

Spent 7 months in Nepal climbing a high peak and did five of the popular treks including EBC. Did all of the treks carrying my own things. But you only need to carry a daypack if you stick to the teahouse treks. You can easily avoid the crowds people refer to above by taking on a non-popular trek including the trek to Manaslu, Makalu or Kachenchunga base camp. Some of these treks are not the typical teahouses treks. You need your own gear. Remember if you just stay off the popular treks like EBC (taking the 3 passes), Annaurpuna Circuit or BC, you can have your own trail. Even on EBC, if you go via Gokyo you can have the trail to yourself. I've been to many mountain ranges around the world and in terms of mind blowing scenery, it's hard to beat the Himalayas. 7,000m & 8,000m peaks looming around the bend are a sight to behold. The cultural beauty is also significant. I'm more into Zen and Buddhism so i'm a bit biased.

BUT if you really want to get the hell out there then head to Kyrgyzstan and trek to Khan Tengri base camp. You can take a chopper back. Get to the chopper!

Boleslav wrote:We have done both treks- 3 passes in Everest area and Huayhuash including Paso Trapecio.
We did 3 passes by carrying all our gear ourselves, thus no sherpas pushing us to stay at their favorite teahouse and we did Huayhuash 13 days (Llamac to Llamac, with 1 day extra) by hiring local donkey driver-arriero-with 2 donkeys, to carry our loads.

We live in the Rockies and are spoilt by the lovely mountains, yet when we got back home from both trips Nepal and Huayhuash, we had very hard time to adjust. You just have the stunning mountains along every step (almost) .
3 passesThis trek we started from Jiri, and flew out of Lukla. The advantage was that we did not have to carry any food or tent. Every night was spent in the comfort of a cold teahouse with food being prepared for us.

Huayhuash- I would absolutely not want to carry the supplies and tent on this trek myself. Sure, there are people who do it, but I prefer to enjoy the views of the mountains, not to exhaust myself without much energy to look around.

Both treks are popular, Huayhuash is shorter, every day different scenery, has more lakes, we did not need any crampons etc for Paso Trapecio, it was just a high pass trail. You have to cook yourself, or have your guide cook for you.

3 Passes- high mountains everywhere you look, yaks are nice to see,too.

Awesome, a couple of questions:

1. I know 3 passes would be more comfortable because of tea houses, but also more crowded, and Huayhuash would feel more "wild", but those differences aside did you have a favourite of the two as far as scenery and overall experience?
2. How did you arrange the 2 donkeys and driver, locally once you got there or through a tour/guiding operator? What did it cost?
3. How did the donkeys meet you at Jurau Lake if you took Trapecio pass? Wouldn't they have to go all the way around via Laguna Viconga which would take them two days while you would get to Jurau in one day?
4. Did you also do Seria Pass/Caramarca Lake?
5. What time of year did you go?

Thanks!

kevin trieu wrote:I have done both treks.

Been to Peru twice and been to the Huayhuash region twice doing the lower trek. First time was with the then girlfriend and we both got sick on day three so didn't get very far. I came back a few years later and did the trek by myself carrying all my own stuff. I carried 8 days of supplies. But I'm the type to carry all my gear. Most I carried was two week's worth on a hike on the John Muir Trail. I don't recommend this.

What I remember from this region is that there's animal poop everywhere. You can't count on getting clean water below 5,000m. Filter and sterilize. Poopers from guided group go straight into the watershed. Spectacular scenery. Locals demanding payments for going through their land. Not sure what the system is like now. I was there in 2012. Routefinding was not an issue for me. Altitude wasn't an issue either but then I was climbing 6,000m peaks for a month before that. Low crowds. Feel like you are out there.

Spent 7 months in Nepal climbing a high peak and did five of the popular treks including EBC. Did all of the treks carrying my own things. But you only need to carry a daypack if you stick to the teahouse treks. You can easily avoid the crowds people refer to above by taking on a non-popular trek including the trek to Manaslu, Makalu or Kachenchunga base camp. Some of these treks are not the typical teahouses treks. You need your own gear. Remember if you just stay off the popular treks like EBC (taking the 3 passes), Annaurpuna Circuit or BC, you can have your own trail. Even on EBC, if you go via Gokyo you can have the trail to yourself. I've been to many mountain ranges around the world and in terms of mind blowing scenery, it's hard to beat the Himalayas. 7,000m & 8,000m peaks looming around the bend are a sight to behold. The cultural beauty is also significant. I'm more into Zen and Buddhism so i'm a bit biased.

BUT if you really want to get the hell out there then head to Kyrgyzstan and trek to Khan Tengri base camp. You can take a chopper back. Get to the chopper!

Wow, you are doing it right Khan Tengri looks cool, I was also considering K2 basecamp but not sure if it's wise to travel in Pakistan these days. Since you've done so many treks in Nepal, which would you say is the most scenic? Ie if I value amazing jaw dropping alpine scenery above all else, even if it means dealing with crowded trails.. is there a clear winner?

We did 3 passes in the mid April-May 2008, it did not feel too crowded., but at that time not many people did 3 passes, The mountains are more majestic and you have that WOW factor almost all the time. Yaks are cool to see, so is the culture

Huayhuash- the east side is more crowded then the west side. We did it Mid May to Mid June in 2009, it was starting to be popular, several groups at every campsite. Heard back from others and it seems to be really popular nowadays. The scenery is beautiful but compared to 3 passes, did not feel surrounded by the mountains at every step. Llamas and alpacas are cool to see, so are campesitos who yell at you "Que pais" (what country?)
Do not take me wrong, we loved both treks, if you could do both of them eventually.

we organized the donkey driver through an agency, but we insisted we do not need their guide, so it worked out great as on several occasions he had to take a different route then us and we met him in the camp. I have his contact, if you are interested. I think we paid approx 35-$40 per day for the arriero, 2 donkeys, his food and his equipment.

The donkey driver went with us and his donkeys over the Trapecio pass from Huayhuash village to the other side (name escapes me). We skipped Vigonca as it did not sound that interesting.

4. Did you also do Seria Pass/Caramarca Lake? - did not do

overall experience:
1. 3 passes, but had to take it slowly as we felt the high altitude effects above Namche for couple days.
2. Huayhuash, its nice, but much smaller mountain range,
glad we did both