Pneumatic Crampons?....Help An Ice N00b!!

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
User Avatar
Dave Daly

 
Posts: 8389
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 1:34 pm
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

Pneumatic Crampons?....Help An Ice N00b!!

by Dave Daly » Thu Sep 16, 2010 5:22 pm

So, my lovely wife sends me a text stating she is looking at new crampons (Petzl's to be exact) but wants "pneumatic heels" for stiff boots. Curious, I start looking for crampons that are pneumatic. (insert image of tortured soul in hell)

Ok, I'm done trying to research the topic through a host of manufactures (ie Petzl, Grivel etc) and I still can't find what makes a crampon or its components "pneumatic". Aren't the leverwire and toe bail all mechanical in nature? Adjustments are purely mechanical. ARRRGGG!!! Am I hung up on the word or is some engineer getting a chuckle out of tormenting folks like me who know its all MECHANICAL!!

Two types of crampons in my mind: Hinged and Rigid. Done.

pneu·mat·ic; adj

Websters Definition of PNEUMATIC:

1: of, relating to, or using gas (as air or wind): a : moved or worked by air pressure b

(1) : adapted for holding or inflated with compressed air
(2) : having air-filled cavities

2: of or relating to the pneuma : spiritual

3: having a well-proportioned feminine figure; especially : having a full bust
:shock:

So, if #3 applies, then Petzl and others will be pissing off alot of plastic surgeons!

User Avatar
Dave Daly

 
Posts: 8389
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 1:34 pm
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

by Dave Daly » Thu Sep 16, 2010 5:44 pm

Think I found an answer to my question. "Newmatic" (NOT pneumatic).....is a trademark signature of Grivel only. Basically, a hybrid style used for more rigid boots.

More enlightenment anyone?

User Avatar
welle

 
Posts: 600
Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 9:08 pm
Thanked: 21 times in 17 posts

by welle » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:04 pm

ROTFLMAO! I nominate this post as the best post of the day or maybe year, or maybe ever?

This is when I wish SP had a similar star system as RC.com...

User Avatar
brenta

 
Posts: 1978
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2004 1:43 am
Thanked: 20 times in 16 posts

by brenta » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:17 pm

Petzl's version is called Leverlock. BD's is called Clip. Grivel was the first to introduce that kind of binding and their name has stuck as a generic name.

It's a very versatile and secure type of binding, and it works reasonably well on technical terrain though not as well as the Cramp-o-matic (Leverlock Fil in Petzl's parlance and Pro for BD).

The Newmatic is a very good choice for mountaineering crampons. The boots must be reasonably stiff and have a heel welt, but don't need to have a toe welt.

User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7780
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Thanked: 787 times in 519 posts

by MoapaPk » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:23 pm


User Avatar
Buz Groshong

 
Posts: 2845
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 10:58 pm
Thanked: 687 times in 484 posts

by Buz Groshong » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:27 pm

So you guys are saying that they saw me coming when they sold me that isobutane powered air compressor for my pneumatic crampons? :?

Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!

User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1244
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Thanked: 111 times in 91 posts

by JHH60 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:33 pm

It's a historical term. Pneumatic crampons are old style strap-on crampons, of the type Maestri wore when he put up the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre.

User Avatar
Hotoven

 
Posts: 1864
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:06 pm
Thanked: 118 times in 89 posts

by Hotoven » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:34 pm

Buz Groshong wrote:So you guys are saying that they saw me coming when they sold me that isobutane powered air compressor for my pneumatic crampons? :?

Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!



HEHE NICE!

User Avatar
simonov

 
Posts: 1395
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:07 pm
Thanked: 786 times in 451 posts

by simonov » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:52 pm

I guess none of you guys have read Brave New World?

User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7780
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Thanked: 787 times in 519 posts

by MoapaPk » Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:15 pm

Buz Groshong wrote:Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!


North Face used to make a Mobius tent with just one side. It was confusing to set up, so now they just sell the Mobius duffel bag.

User Avatar
Alpinisto

 
Posts: 554
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 1:39 am
Thanked: 5 times in 4 posts

by Alpinisto » Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:51 pm

MoapaPk wrote:North Face used to make a Mobius tent with just one side. It was confusing to set up, so now they just sell the Mobius duffel bag.


[LARRY THE CABLE GUY VOICE]: "Now that right there is funny!"


I love math geek humor.

User Avatar
Buz Groshong

 
Posts: 2845
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 10:58 pm
Thanked: 687 times in 484 posts

by Buz Groshong » Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:58 pm

MoapaPk wrote:
Buz Groshong wrote:Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!


North Face used to make a Mobius tent with just one side. It was confusing to set up, so now they just sell the Mobius duffel bag.


:lol: :lol: :lol:

User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1244
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Thanked: 111 times in 91 posts

by JHH60 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:00 pm

MoapaPk wrote:
Buz Groshong wrote:Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!


North Face used to make a Mobius tent with just one side. It was confusing to set up, so now they just sell the Mobius duffel bag.


OK, my inner math geek won't be silenced. Isn't it technically a Klein bottle duffel bag? :)

User Avatar
asmrz

 
Posts: 1097
Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2002 7:52 am
Thanked: 248 times in 157 posts

by asmrz » Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:32 pm

Dave, the word "Newmatic" deals with a form of attachment of the crampon to the boot. If you have just hiking boots, the crampons need to have straps for the toe and the heel. "Newmatic" type consists of a toe strap and a built-in heel (usually plastic plug) which only works on boots which have a protruding heel (mostly light to mid weight mountaineering boots). The third choice is crampons for boots that have groove at the toe and a built-in heel in the back, mostly rigid boots and top mountaineering and ice climbing boots. Deb would benefit from Newmatic style crampons like Grivel G-12 Newmatic or BD Sabretooth Clip, provided her boots have that built-in heel. Cheers, A.

User Avatar
Buz Groshong

 
Posts: 2845
Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 10:58 pm
Thanked: 687 times in 484 posts

by Buz Groshong » Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:39 pm

JHH60 wrote:
MoapaPk wrote:
Buz Groshong wrote:Next you're going to tell me that my single-wall tent should have two sides to it!


North Face used to make a Mobius tent with just one side. It was confusing to set up, so now they just sell the Mobius duffel bag.


OK, my inner math geek won't be silenced. Isn't it technically a Klein bottle duffel bag? :)


That depends: If you're travelling in 4-space you'd want the Klein bottle duffel bag; if you're travelling in 3-space you'd want the Mobius duffel bag, which is not quite as expensive.

Now can someone provide me with a decent affine mapping from my gear closet to my pack.

Next

Return to General

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests