by kamil » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:24 am
by MattGreene » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:59 am
by JD » Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:13 pm
by JD » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:31 am
by gwave47 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:16 am
by dan2see » Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:53 am
MattGreene wrote:Yeah, Dan, I understand why the conversation confused you, because we're basically just for fun discussing a technique none of us, including Gwave, would ever try...
by gwave47 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 5:22 am
by kamil » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:16 am
by MattGreene » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:57 am
by JD » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:39 pm
gwave47 wrote:...it's not an effort issue, just more of a time issue.
I'm planning on hiking/climbing Granite next summer.
by JD » Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:14 pm
myfierceblackhound wrote:I guess someone forgot to tell Colin that there is absolutely no way to climb and rappel only once!
Colin Hayley wrote:The rope is the "6mm Alpine Personal Escape Rope," by Esprit Ropes in Toronto. It is an excellent rap/tag line I think. No special core - all nylon. It has a burly sheath. It is quite stiff, which is always a plus in super skinny ropes, because the stiff rap lines tangle less.
Colin Hayley wrote:As for the one pitch where I belayed, it is a rudimentary technique, that in Yosemite is often referred to as "back-looping." The idea is to build a multi-directional anchor at the base of the questionable terrain, thread your rope through this anchor, attach yourself to both strands of the rope (whether with knots, hitches, or devices), and climb up, risking a factor 2 fall onto your anchor. The advantage over a traditional self-belay is that you can simply pull your rope up from above afterwards, rather than having to rappel down and prusik back up. If you are descending the same route that you are climbing (such as I was in this video), then you can clip both strands through intermediate pieces of protection (such as the cams I was placing in this video), because you know that you can retrieve them on your descent, to negate the possibility of taking a factor 2 fall. And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!
by kamil » Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:03 am
MattGreene wrote:If you were clipping both rope sections into each piece of protection, that'd probably give you 6-10 pinch points. I'd expect severe drag, but could be wrong.
Colin Hayley wrote:And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!
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