Mountaineering "Up and Over"

[reggi]

I'm looking for accounts of difficult summits that were climbed up alpine style and then down a different route.

Sort of a "functional" mountaineering. Book titles would be great.

Thanks.

[Marmaduke]

The West Ridge ~ Tom Hornbein American's first ascent of Everest

[reggi]

Thank you.

Just ordered the book earlier today, as well as "Shishapangma Expedition" by Doug Scott.

[seano]

I don't know what you're looking for, but Norman Clyde's account of the first ascent of Mount Russell is a good read. He went up the east ridge, then decided to go down the north because it looked like a more direct way down to his camp. None of it turned out harder than class 3, but it was all unknown.

[Sierra Ledge Rat]

Define "difficult," and you will have your answer.

I've traversed Mt. Rainier, but is that a "difficult" climb?
What do you mean by "difficult?"
Ask Alex Honnold what is "difficult."

[leroxog]

I'm looking for accounts of difficult summits that were climbed up alpine style and then down a different route.

Sort of a "functional" mountaineering. Book titles would be great.

Thanks.

Here are some books about difficult alpine-style ascents with different descent routes:

The Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge: A Guide to the World's Most Difficult Alpine Routes by Mark Twight
Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge book coverOpens in a new window

Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge book cover
The Seven Summits: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains by Dick Bass and Frank Wells
Seven Summits book coverOpens in a new window

Seven Summits book cover
The Vertical Life: A Biography of Reinhold Messner by David Roberts
Vertical Life book coverOpens in a new window

Vertical Life book cover
No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the North Faces of the Alps by Doug Scott
No Shortcuts to the Top book coverOpens in a new window

No Shortcuts to the Top book cover
The Hard Way Up: Climbing the World's Most Difficult Mountains by Steve House
Hard Way Up book coverOpens in a new window

Hard Way Up book cover
These books all feature accounts of difficult alpine-style ascents with different descent routes. They are written by some of the most experienced and accomplished mountaineers in the world, and they offer a fascinating glimpse into the challenges and rewards of this type of climbing.

If you are interested in "functional" mountaineering, I highly recommend reading these books. They will provide you with the knowledge and inspiration you need to plan and execute your own difficult alpine-style ascents.

[mvs]

I really enjoyed the Boardman-Tasker Omnibus. A collection of 4 books, two by Peter Boardman, 2 by Joe Tasker. "Everest the Cruel Way" was extremely good in that collection. A winter attempt on Everest using snow caves. Thoughtful writing, though threaded through with doom.

[Jaabo]

I really enjoyed the Boardman-Tasker Omnibus. A collection of 4 books, two by Peter Boardman, 2 by Joe Tasker. "Everest the Cruel Way" was extremely good in that collection. A winter attempt on Everest using snow caves. Thoughtful writing, though threaded through with doom.

Gotta revisit it someday. All I remember was that Everest the cruel way was extremely difficulty to read(for some reason it felt really heavy for me)

[mvs]

I hear ya...for some reason I like that very tedious style, reading about every single thing that happened. First he put the tea on. Then Adrian comes back from a carry to camp 3. Then a scratchy radio conversation with the missing liason. Then a carry to camp 2, but pants shat. Then Burgess says the tents are destroyed at the high camp.

On and on it goes. 1970s British people.