Mountaineering "Up and Over"

[reggi]

I'm looking for accounts of difficult summits that were climbed up alpine style and then down a different route.

Sort of a "functional" mountaineering. Book titles would be great.

Thanks.

[Marmaduke]

The West Ridge ~ Tom Hornbein American's first ascent of Everest

[reggi]

Thank you.

Just ordered the book earlier today, as well as "Shishapangma Expedition" by Doug Scott.

[seano]

I don't know what you're looking for, but Norman Clyde's account of the first ascent of Mount Russell is a good read. He went up the east ridge, then decided to go down the north because it looked like a more direct way down to his camp. None of it turned out harder than class 3, but it was all unknown.

[Sierra Ledge Rat]

Define "difficult," and you will have your answer.

I've traversed Mt. Rainier, but is that a "difficult" climb?
What do you mean by "difficult?"
Ask Alex Honnold what is "difficult."

[leroxog]

I'm looking for accounts of difficult summits that were climbed up alpine style and then down a different route.

Sort of a "functional" mountaineering. Book titles would be great.

Thanks.

Here are some books about difficult alpine-style ascents with different descent routes:

The Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge: A Guide to the World's Most Difficult Alpine Routes by Mark Twight
Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge book coverOpens in a new window

Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge book cover
The Seven Summits: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains by Dick Bass and Frank Wells
Seven Summits book coverOpens in a new window

Seven Summits book cover
The Vertical Life: A Biography of Reinhold Messner by David Roberts
Vertical Life book coverOpens in a new window

Vertical Life book cover
No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the North Faces of the Alps by Doug Scott
No Shortcuts to the Top book coverOpens in a new window

No Shortcuts to the Top book cover
The Hard Way Up: Climbing the World's Most Difficult Mountains by Steve House
Hard Way Up book coverOpens in a new window

Hard Way Up book cover
These books all feature accounts of difficult alpine-style ascents with different descent routes. They are written by some of the most experienced and accomplished mountaineers in the world, and they offer a fascinating glimpse into the challenges and rewards of this type of climbing.

If you are interested in "functional" mountaineering, I highly recommend reading these books. They will provide you with the knowledge and inspiration you need to plan and execute your own difficult alpine-style ascents.

[mvs]

I really enjoyed the Boardman-Tasker Omnibus. A collection of 4 books, two by Peter Boardman, 2 by Joe Tasker. "Everest the Cruel Way" was extremely good in that collection. A winter attempt on Everest using snow caves. Thoughtful writing, though threaded through with doom.

[Jaabo]

I really enjoyed the Boardman-Tasker Omnibus. A collection of 4 books, two by Peter Boardman, 2 by Joe Tasker. "Everest the Cruel Way" was extremely good in that collection. A winter attempt on Everest using snow caves. Thoughtful writing, though threaded through with doom.

Gotta revisit it someday. All I remember was that Everest the cruel way was extremely difficulty to read(for some reason it felt really heavy for me)

[mvs]

I hear ya...for some reason I like that very tedious style, reading about every single thing that happened. First he put the tea on. Then Adrian comes back from a carry to camp 3. Then a scratchy radio conversation with the missing liason. Then a carry to camp 2, but pants shat. Then Burgess says the tents are destroyed at the high camp.

On and on it goes. 1970s British people.

[Gusschneider]

I'm not sure what you're seeking, but Norman Clyde's narrative of the initial climb of Mount Russell is worth exploring. He ascended via the east ridge, later opting to descend the north side as it appeared to offer a more direct route to his camp. Although none of it proved more difficult than class 3, the entire journey was uncharted territory.