Why is crack climbing more fun than face climbing ?

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fatdad

 
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by fatdad » Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:54 pm

Thanks for the nice pics Graham (and I know I'm going to sound like a dick for saying this), but don't your friends actually lead cracks? That's the beauty of crack climbing--you always have a piece of gear right in front of your face. Who needs a TR?

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CClaude

 
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by CClaude » Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:54 pm

Andinistaloco wrote:Looks like Sedona. That Earth Angel?


shangri-la.....

Makes Earth Angel look like a s#&%pile

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graham

 
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by graham » Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:19 pm

fatdad wrote:Thanks for the nice pics Graham......but don't your friends actually lead cracks?
Thanks fatdad. All were led, except for Equinox (btw that a photo of Bob Passerini). I generally don't take photos while I'm belaying the leader. Those photos were taken while running some extra laps.....and feeling the lov 8)

CClaude:
shangri-la..... looks very nice indeed 8)
Last edited by graham on Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:22 pm

fatdad wrote:Thanks for the nice pics Graham (and I know I'm going to sound like a dick for saying this), but don't your friends actually lead cracks? That's the beauty of crack climbing--you always have a piece of gear right in front of your face. Who needs a TR?


Me- cause I suck. You don't learn to climb by falling on lead from the get-go!

-Mark

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:30 pm

Here's yet more climbing pRon. Not only am I getting both at once (crack and face,) but I have a hot chick belaying to boot. Does that make it a foursome?

Image
Smiladon at Courtright Reservoir

edit: Yeah that looks like Passerini. Does he ever wear anything other than black?

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graham

 
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by graham » Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:58 pm

ksolem wrote:edit: Yeah that looks like Passerini. Does he ever wear anything other than black?
I've only met Bob this one time while he was working on Equinox on a really cold and windy day. His fingers must have been totaly numb after his 2 laps. Bob is super nice and let us share his campsite in Ryan that night and shared some great stories around the campfire; an amazing guy 8)

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:04 am

graham wrote:
ksolem wrote:edit: Yeah that looks like Passerini. Does he ever wear anything other than black?
I've only met Bob this one time while he was working on Equinox on a really cold and windy day. His fingers must have been totaly numb after his 2 laps. Bob is super nice and let us share his campsite in Ryan that night and shared some great stories around the campfire; an amazing guy 8)


Bob Passerini is an extremely good climber. And of course all around nice guy. One of SoCals best!

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fatdad

 
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by fatdad » Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:12 am

graham wrote:
fatdad wrote:Thanks for the nice pics Graham......but don't your friends actually lead cracks?
Thanks fatdad. All were led, except for Equinox (btw that a photo of Bob Passerini). I generally don't take photos while I'm belaying the leader. Those photos were taken while running some extra laps.....and feeling the lov 8)

CClaude:
shangri-la..... looks very nice indeed 8)


Like I said, I probably was going to sound like a dick. :wink:

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:31 am

fatdad wrote: ...Like I said, I probably was going to sound like a dick. :wink:


It's okay to sound like a dick on a thread where people are talking about climbing pRon. Really, it's cool.

Here's some climbing Pron, this one's been keeping folks up all night for years...

Image

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graham

 
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by graham » Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:19 am

fatdad wrote: ...Like I said, I probably was going to sound like a dick. :wink:
No worries fatdad. Climbers talking about climbing and sharing climbing pr0n. What could be better......oh yah, I guess actually climbing :D

Kris, kudos on your Insomnia. I’d love to be able to be that sleepless 8)

Just so those with slab fetishes don’t feel left out:
Papa Woolsey
Image

Loose Lady
Image

10 Karat Gold
Image

Another view of 10 Karat Gold
Image

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:51 am

That's some nice looking slab there, Gary. It reminds me a bit of some of the climbs in Whitney Portal but I suspect that is not where you are.

I'm stumped (or is it between 29 Palms and the 15?)

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rpc

 
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by rpc » Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:13 am

Image
Image

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CClaude

 
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by CClaude » Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:20 am

As for basaltic cracks, try this one

Image

a new route put up by Mike Sokoloff (Parting Gift .13b) at the Waterfall where the crux is just above Kyle Edmonson. Note: The route to the left of Kyle is Kindness, a 1 move .13a leading to a tough stem.

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or of course a photo I've posted
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which is Matt Swartz on 11/11 (another Basaltic Crack)

Now too bad I haven't taken a picture of Terminator which is among the best basaltic cracks I've ever done

Image

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:40 am

Cclaude.... in second one, what did he do, dump his helmet, and go old skool?

Great p0rn...... :wink:

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CClaude

 
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by CClaude » Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:15 pm

Guyzo wrote:Cclaude.... in second one, what did he do, dump his helmet, and go old skool?

Great p0rn...... :wink:


on Kindness to move your right foot up you need to plaster your head and right shoulder against the wall and drag your thumb against the roof so hard that you scrap the skin off (its a V7/V8 move). Mike had found that having his helmet on, he wasn't able to smear his head/face against the wall and get enough friction to stay on, soo he dumped his helmet.

Now me, I'm always ol'skool

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