With Rachael. After Tijeras and Milwaukee. Went up the steep narrow gully that goes pretty much directly to the summit. This is the "Wedgie" V slot referenced by others. Gets narrow and exposed near the top, but was a fun aesthetic route, glad we took it! Also climbed 13020 on our way down before heading back over the pass to camp.
Hiked into camp at Upper Sand Creek Lake. Went up Milwaukee (one little part of that ledge was loose and scary), over to Pico, then 13020, down to the drainage and back over the pass. A long day! And . . . when I stumbled back into camp, I discovered that someone had stolen my bivy sack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad!
Climed the wedgie! Great climb, better rock than Milwaukee. I stayed right of the Wedgie, about 10 feet, and made for a nice 5.5 on solid rock.
From Milwaukee. Class 3 if you're careful. Trip report.
Traversed from Milwaukee and contoured across to the prominent V slot formation on the east face. Climbed up The Wedgie, a prominent gully on the n.e. face featuring sustained class 3/4 scrambling. Highly recommended, just stick close together as there is some loose rock to deal with.
Camped high in Cottonwood Creek and climbed Milwaukee, Pico Asilado & UN 13020 the day after tackling the Crestone Traverse. I actually enjoyed this climb better and found the scrambling to be a bit more difficult. Note that this was a low snow year in the Sangres and the end of May may be too early for this route in a normal year.
After making the traverse from Milwaukee Peak's summit, we climbed the righthand of two prominent cracks on Pico's east face. This route entailed some third and fourth class. It's an elegant line that takes you all the way to the summit (literally a few steps away!), and avoids the routefinding difficulties on the ledges and gullies that people usually engage further north on the face. We continued the traverse to UN 13,020 before returning to Cottonwood Creek. A trip report is available here.
Did this one with Jim in a cloudy haze from a wildfire down in NM. Stunning views of the Crestones. Pico was on my to do list for about two years, it's nice to finally visit that summit.