What an incredible adventure. I photographed the perseids from the Pigeon / Turret saddle. Trip Report:
Start of a long dayhike out of Purgatory. Remember, the trail leaves the *southeast* side of the second meadow! Trip report.
I had this peak in my mind for a long time. Finally, made it. Went up North Pigeon Creek approach, and NW basin. Much technically easier than described.
Ran into Kiefer - he was on his way out and I was on my way in.
Also ran into Renata, another czech chick who completed her centennials with Pigeon.
Pigeon Peak handed me a full glass of "Shut the hell up." I seriously underestimated this peak. It kicked my butt. Probably one of the most scenic and demanding centennial peaks I've done.
Ran out of water going up and down this behemoth.
Luckily, there was a decent-flowing spring 1/4 the way up the west slope I was able to fill up.
I scrambled up to the ridge crest thinking I'd find a slightly harder way to the summit, 4th class maybe 5-easy. Got myself cornered into some hard 5th columns. Had to down-climb maybe 25' back to the slope & take the standard route up. Cost me about 30 minutes. This was a rewarding summit.
Ran into Liba on the way out via Purgatory Trail!
Shawn and I were determined to beat the storms so we left camp at Ruby Lake at about 1am. Unfortunately, we got turned around in the dark and started to make a direct assault on Peak Fifteen's north side. We realized our mistake and got on track to the Pigeon/Turret saddle, but it cost us time. Even "on track," we had trouble figuring out where the "grassy" sections were. There were a lot more willows to get through than expected. So Pigeon was more annoying than fun. The scrambling section consisted of mostly ramps zig-zagging up the last 200 feet. And getting there from the Pigeon/Turret saddle was tedious.
Solo day trip from Purgatory TH: 28.2 miles RT, 9,800' elevation gain, 17 hours car-to-car. Approached via North Pigeon Creek. Interesting route finding exercise on the way to the upper N. Pigeon Creek drainage. Plenty of snow on the N/NW Face after the snowstorm. Nice hike/climb, beautiful weather, gorgeous views.
I did the brutally steep North Pigeon Creek ridge approach from the Ruby Creek trail as in Roachs' book. It took me 3.5 hours from Needleton to camp below Pigeon. 2 older climbers took 5 hours. The trail is not clear and a GPS unit was helpful going up and down. Routefinding up the slopes west of Pigeon was difficult in the dark since there's no trail and many rocks. There's a class 2 (maybe low 3) route all the way to the summit we found on the way down. We did one class 4 move on our route up. Took 3 hours up, about an hour down. Beautiful summit view!
Great peak for the 4th of July, nobody else in sight.
Nice little scramble towards the top. Ended up climbing it from Ruby in just over 2 hours- at the end of a 10 day trip. Awesome views and good pic opportunities.
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Climbed Northwest slopes from camper's meadow below in North Pigeon Creek drainage. Approach from Needleton was killer; ~20% grade for 2.5 or so miles.
Beautiful sun on a late summer day. Spotted several groups of goats. You can avoid the one class 4 move (the chimney) by skirting through the scree to the East.
Very foggy day. Climbed with Turret from Ruby Basin. Great little climb and a beautiful Basin.
I climbed Pigeon Peak as a long day hike starting at the Purgatory trailhead.
What better way to celebrate freedom than on the summit of Pigeon! Approached via NY basin for an attempt at Peak 15 and failed. Awesome weather for Pigeon and Turret.
From Ruby Basin, steep route in place but has some really enjoyable scrambling near the top and a great little summit to hang out on and enjoy the views.
Climbed from camp at 11,400 ft in Ruby Basin after a night of heavy rain. The peaks were socked in for most of the morning, and the rock on Pigeon was still wet and slippery complicating the scrambling near the top. There was also some rotten snow lingering that forced us onto slightly more difficult rock. No views to be had, but a fun climb.
4 hours from Needleton.
too late for a good snow climb, too early for a snow free climb, but amazing! place, from the basin on the west you have to bushwhack in to. Camped in heavy winds with nothing but elk for company for 3 nights. nice!