Tried Pik Lenin in July 2017, 3 weeks in the mountains, four nights in C3 at 6100 m, got only to the Knife, around 6700. Maybe next time.
Cold climb on a clear day. I spent 2 hours on the summit.
Was not strong enough to overcome a poor acclimating plan and only made it to around 6800m. 2 of 6 of my friends topped out that day, and a third did a few days later. Kyrgyzstan and the Pamir was one of my favorite places I have been and I do hope to get back someday.
One of the first summits this year.
bad weather in July this year, not many summits. Used Ak-Sai for logistics. Made 3 load carries from BC-C1.
Long climb, had good luck with the weather near the summit.
I enjoyed the mountain , Pamir and Kyrgyzstan very much!
Me and my partner Johan Dahlström (SWE) spent three weeks on Pik Lenin between 1-21 August 2014. During the first two weeks the weather was ok but in the end it unfortunately became worse. The winds increased and so did the snow.
After a load carry to C3 (6200m) we had to return to ABC. On August 15th the weather improved slightly just after a snow storm and we pushed to C3. We spent three nigths at C3 with a summit bid on the 18th where we were forced to abort the climb at around 6400m. We made the summit bid together with Rumen Radev (BGR).
Despite no summit we had three great weeks in the Pamir mountains. We used the transport and base camp service of Ak-Sai Travel. The people we came across were all very nice and friendly. What an exciting region! I do hope to get back one day.
Made the summit from camp 2.5 at about 5,800m on a bitterly cold day after almost three weeks on the mountain. One of the less dramatic summits I've been on.
At all, great weeks in Pamir.
Summiting via normal route from C4 (6400) with 2 friends
(after 5 days waiting for better weather). While descending to C2, we had to escort german mountainer with high-altitude sickness.
With partner Mike Y from the 6200 m camp along with Kazach, Tajik and Austrian teams. All have been waiting for the right weather window. The forecast didn't disappoint.
Thanks to Andrey from Almaty for making the climb look easy on summit day. Thankfully I didn't know at the time that he is a Snow Leopard and has a few 8K peaks on his resume :-)
Fairly straightforward climb, bit windy on the summit ridge. Lots of crevasses both hidden and obvious from camp 1 to camp 2, with one opening up right in the middle of camp 2. In 8 days we had two days of suitable summit/high climbing weather and were able to use this window and a shitty day before to make the summit push. A lot of snow and hard work breaking an early season trail but on the way down it was a well compacted and flagged highway with at least 50 climbers moving up from camp 1 over two days. Easy to do independently, my partner and I got permits in Osh in two days from Osh guesthouse and transport to BC and back organised off the cuff for 50 bucks each way. Lots of independent and solo climbers to hook up with for the crevasse section too. Nice climb!
I am with clients summited 13.30 - 11 august 2012. Start from camp 3, 6100m 4.00 a.m. Come back 8.00 p.m. All day the weather is not good - windy and cloudy, in the evening blizard.
used no porters or guides. deep snows and strong winds... quite challenging compared to for example Aconcagua... pushed our luck and summited 15:00
We summited after riding off a storm at Camp 4 at 6400m
They say its the easiest 7000m - well there isn't much easy at 7000m :)
A long tiring route without the biggest objective dangers
My first potential summit attempt was wasted because of a weather phenomenon wich seems to be peculiar to the mountain: In the second half of the night started ferocious wind blowing from the S above 6000m, but it stopped in the late morning hours. Next day repeated everything but this time I ignored the morning wind and summitted successful. This fenomenon was confirmed by others climbed in other years. It seems to be usual that an unfriendly cold and windy morning may followed by a suitable summit day.
Glacier: crevasse problems may escalate (signs of climate change?) There were crevasses on the slope over C2 as well and Camp2 self had to move to the scree slope because of a huge crevasse wich opened directly below the camp while we had been in C3.
Started very late (around 6:30 a.m. from C3) and reached about 7050 m before turning around :-(( at about 3:30 p.m., which was set as 'turn-around-time'. Started with perfect conditions - clear blue sky, not too cold and only little wind. In the afternoon weather started to deteriorate, but reached C3 without problems. Probably the best summit day for the next days.
Although we had nice weather overall, a rescue and heavy snowfall caused our summit attempt to fail. Serious avalange danger to climb further than the saddle in front of Peak Razdelnaya at 5800 mtr. Highest point we reached was Peak Razdelnaya during acclimatization.
Although no summit it was a great experience and made me hungry for the next trip!
No summit this time !
Heavy snow during the 3 previous days stopped our summit bid.
Waiting in the overheated tent for days was however the hardest thing to deal with... I´ll know for next time.
So much climbing potential in Kyrgyzstan and really cool people.
Despite the symbolic date and a two-day snowfall beforehand we managed to reach the top. Some of us had cold feet and had to do occasional breaks to warm ourselves, but fortunately, there was almost no wind on the ridge that day. Overall, the season of 2007 is notorious for changing weather and strong winds.
I totally agree with Corax that double boots is a must for the peak (it's not only cold but the altitude that makes your toes freeze). I had problems with my overconfidence and Scarpa Cumbre above 6000 m.
I would also recommend taking an ice axe to the summit - you will feel a lot more comfortable with it on the Knife (although poles might also work fine IF you promise yourself not to slip).
Climbed as an independent group with one partner. Used Asia Mountains for logistics. They did a great job of setting up transport and feeding us properly at camp 1 and 2. Also set up a great tour of Uzbekistan.
Didn't make the summit. Was there a bit too early in the climbing season and got turned back by weather. Spent 5 days in a storm at camp 3 - several tents were blown down! Be careful about stashing gear here and collapse your tent if you are going to leave it behind!!
Make sure you leave time in your trip to see the beautiful country of Kyrgystan :)