Pik Pobeda/Tomur Feng Additions and Corrections

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spellbinder - Nov 24, 2007 1:46 pm - Hasn't voted

on name

The first, local name of the Pik Pobeda was Khan Tengri (the Lord of the Sky/Skies). It had already been used over 1000 years ago by the Uygur tribes living southwards from the mountain.
The present-day Khan Tengri, located ~20 km northward, was called by the native tribes Kan-too (Mountain of the Blood/the Bloody Mountain).
The first European who saw glittering marbles of Khan Tengri was PP Siemionov (later called 'Tien-Shanskij' to honour his achievments in exploration of this ranger). Having heard the name of the highest, majestic peak of this area (Khan Tengri) and thinking he was seeing it from the distance, he applied this name to the mountain the local guides called Kan-too. So the name Khan Tengri spread out.
The further exploration focused on the present Khan Tengri (originally Kan-too) and the real,native names of these two majestic mountains faded away.


BigLee - Nov 24, 2007 2:20 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: on name

Sorry, but Pobeda was never called Khan Tengri. Where did you read this? It's common knowledge that the "Lord of the Skies" is and always has been Khan Tengri due to its shape and beauty. My references are based on AAJ articles, Simon Yates' accounts and this website. I've not had a chance to rebuild the Pobeda page yet since Corax & myself adopted it from another maintainer. When I do, it will look more like the current Khan Tengri page in style. Thanks


Corax - Nov 24, 2007 2:48 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: on name

Thanks for the comment/input.
I have never heard anything about what you say either, but to be honest I have no clue about the origin of the name, so I stay out of this discussion.


spellbinder - Nov 25, 2007 5:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: on name

Well, my source is a Polish book about first attempts on some of the remarkable peaks, however the language can be a problem here :)

I do not say that Khan Tengri is not called Khan Tengri. :)
As SP page of this mountain says, it is also called (in Kazah) Kan Tau which means "Blood Mountain" (due to marbles glittering in the sunset).

It often happened that names were mixed and local ones, if ever existed, were forgotten as those given by the West-men spread out

I submited this info just as a curiosity


Corax - Nov 25, 2007 5:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: on name

I find this kind of info, the one about origin of names etc is interesting.


BigLee - Nov 25, 2007 6:19 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: on name

Thanks. Yes, it's amazing how many peaks there are that have been renamed even though they had a perfectly acceptable local name.


dmiki - Mar 24, 2010 4:50 am - Hasn't voted

on name #2

From Wikipedia: "The mountain's official name in Kyrgyz is Jengish Chokosu, which means "Victory Peak"; its Russian name is Pik Pobedy (or Peak Pobeda) meaning the same. In Uighur, it is called Tömür, which is also the official name of the mountain in China. The Chinese name Tu?mù'?r F?ng is a combination of the Uighur tomur, meaning 'iron' and Chinese feng meaning 'peak'."


runout - Dec 22, 2018 6:59 am - Voted 9/10

Base Camp and Climb

in 2018 the camp leader Dimitri and his friend Alex were very unfriendly and had lots of discussions with several customers.
People with 'Full Package' were not satisfied with the food and they were hungry every evening.

As i tried 2 different routes (Abalakov 2018, Classic 2017 to 6600m), i 'd suggest to go with the Abalakov route.
To me the Abalakov seems to be much safer than the Classic route where you have to climb through a very dangerous ceracs section and a rock part with very rotten fixed ropes. The snow can be a problem on both routes. The Abalakov has lots of crevasses in the lover part and some cornices at around 5500m where you have to take care not to break through.

I added a picture (shot 2018 from Ak-Tau Clol) with an overview of the north face and the routes drawn.

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