We only had a short time to acclimate (3 day trek) before attempting Pisco. Luckily we did some good training before leaving for Peru and that really paid off. Left the moraine camp around 2am and were on top around 7am; the pace was actually a bit too slow for me and I got a bit chilly at times. There was a really big group in front of us, which caused a bit of a traffic jam on the final summit slope. All in all, not too hard of a day with a gorgeous starry night, no wind and nearly full moon. It was surreal.
Started at 5:00 from refugio Peru, summited at 11:00. I was climbing with an italian climber who was really slow, so it could be reached much earlier, i think in 4 hours could be done without problems. Really easy climb. Views are one of the most beautiful i´ve ever seen.
Nice climb with great views of the cordillera - definately soloable, very little crevasse danger. Would recommenda yanapacha as an alternative for acclimatization as pisco can get crowded.
I climbed Pisco via the normal route from Refuge camp. It took us just over 5 hours to reach the summit just as the sun was coming up. I really enjoyed the climb, the final wall made it a bit more fun. We had been hiking and climbing for a couple of weeks before attempting Pisco, so fortunately no altitude problems. The views from the summit are great as Pisco is ideally positioned in the middle of the main Blanca mountains. I highly recommend it. Only negative aspect, the moraine on the way back was never ending!
Nice climb at the tail end of a month in the Blanca. After a month, no strain with altitutde
Soloed via the normal route (PD), leaving the hut (Refugio Peru) at 01:30 and summiting at 08:00. Sunny day but winds of 10 to 30 km/h all night and day with gusts > 50 km/h near the top early in the morning.
Curious if you felt there was a significant risk doing this as a solo climb on the glacier, or if it's not really an issue to go solo on Pisco?
Lovely glacier. The views were fantastic. Not as easy as people say it is.... Wonderful day in my life
My first time over 5,000 m
We finally all got to the top of a peak in the Cordillera Blanca together, with nobody too sick to summit! With my wife Sonya, Derek, Maggie, Oscar, and Carlos.
At morraine camp a friend developed HAPE, so went back down with him. Then returned to climb it. Broke my foot on the climb - while on the talus-covered glacier crossing a climber above me set off a rock slide, my foot got caught between two rocks. It wasn't til I got back to the States that an X-ray showed a broken metatarsul. Still, a lot of fun.
Absolutely fantastic peak, climbed it in super easy conditions(no problematic crevasses) returned two weeks later and climbed again for asthetic value.
1st peak in the blanca, sweet views
I read that Pisco was a fairly easy climb used often to acclimate. So, I hired a guide and headed to Pisco on my third day in Peru. This was my first time mountaineering and it was brutal, especially since I let my guide set a quicker pace than I could handle and I had to rent gear that didn't fit. I reached the summit and forced a smile for my pictures and immediately headed back down. It was definitely an experience!
Nice and not that long, quiet steep with short mixed passages and on the top, where you exit the face, a little bit scary because of the bad snow and ice!
Not one of the highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca, but certainly one of the most beautiful views (Huascaran, Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Chacraraju, Artesonraju, Alpamayo...). Crossing back the morraine in the heat is definitely a pain in the neck !
This was a physically easy climb; if you are acclimatized, you should have no problem. We camped at the Moraine Camp and summitted at a very slow pace in less than five hours. There are crevasses to jump and a fairly steep snow and ice sections but none required two tools. The view from the top was spectacular with many 6000m peaks in the surrounding area. I was expecting this mountain to be cold, but by Cascade standards, this was a warm peak, despite its nearly 19,000 ft. summit. I climbed in windstopper fleace pants and a gortex parka; no layers, just long-johns. I did have to pull my balaclava down when it got windy. Regarding the moraine above base camp: yes, it is difficult, but it is easier to negotiate than the character building talus of the Sierra Nevada; just pay attention and you'll get past it.
Started from basecamp(!) at about 1:30 a.m. and reached the summit at about 7 a.m. as first party (3 climbers) on that day. Clouds started to move in at sunrise, so we could enjoy the view from top only for a short time. Were back at basecamp at about 10 a.m. and took a rest for the remaining day. Nice and easy climb, except the moraine: especially at descent strenuous and concentration required. The weather deteriorated during the coming night and we had snow in the basecamp. Most climbers who started that night had to abort their ascent.
It snowed about 1 inch the night before we climbed and continued to snow lightly almost all the way to the Pisco-Huandoy Col. After that it was mostly clear for a while and then we were in the clouds up to the summit. I doubt I got a very good summit photo of myself, but I did get a shot of my hand holding the GPS. We were in the clouds most of the way down, so we didn't get hot on the glacier coming down. We started at about 3 AM from moraine camp and got back there before noon - after packing up we headed on down to base camp for the following night.
This was a new personal altitude record and I greatly enjoyed the climb (although all the rock scrambling wore me down quite a bit).
Climbed the standard route starting from the moraine camp. About 40 minutes to the glacier, total time to summit about 4 hours. Got to the top as dawn was breaking. Spectacular views of the area. The ice wall is a lot smaller this year than previous years, maybe 10ft high with 50 degree slope at the top that goes for 120ft or so.