This is one of my favorit summits in the Alps.
You can climb Piz Bernina by skis, climb one of the most famous ridge in the Alps (Bianco) or climb it over the hidden west- icewall.
Unfortunately I had to give up 150m bellow the summit. Frequent climbers of Bernina say this is worst year in decades to climb Bernina because there is least snow so some really exposed rocks are now dry. Rocks were falling every few minutes so I decided not to risk together with 3 other friends in our 6 member party. I have to go back again. I guess it was much better to go in July or even June and not this late in season. After deciding not to go we walked around the peak and enjoyed some exceptional views of Bellavista ridge.
Anyway, we approached Bernina from Campo Moro on Italian side and slept in Marco e Rosa hut. Needed 9 hours to reach hut. Trail is very long but so beautiful with amazing views. Peak of the route is ofcourse crossing of upper Scersen glacier and ferrata climb to Marco e Rosa. Just bellow the entrance to ferrata there are some amazing crevasses.
After planning a trip to summit the Bernina from Marco e Rosa hut, we had to change plans because of running out of holiday. Incredible view at a perfect.
A great couple days out with Doug.
No room at the inn (Tschierva was booked out and our optimism was dissappointed)- but good news was that we had a full moon. So after a rushed Soup dinner- we charged on.
Of course the approach to the col was all in the shade on the Piz Bianco itself but the surrounding mtns were brilliant. I would advise against soloing the 40 ice with a petzl LED headlamp but it does work.
Including 3 bivouac attempts- we couldn't sit still for more than an hour- we climbed tha actual snow ridge by sunrise with blue sky- truly heavenly.
Halfway a long the rock ridge to the true summit we got past by two guided parties (who had slept in beds the night before)- who really moved with a short rope technique that I must practise.
The marco y Rosa hut is under development, so though it has a great location- I would advise against it.
The next day we climbed Piz Bellavista direct north ridge and bailed off the Palu ridge.
I would recommend Diavolezza over Morderatsch/Boval exits.
After a wet bivouc near the 300% crowded hut we failed due to very rainy and stormy weather. Only to reach the hut again in best sunshine ;-(
I'll be back.
did this as mountain guide with two clients...went down to Marco e Rosa hut and the next day we did the traverse of Piz Palü
Climbed P. Bernina via the Biancograt route in two days from Pontresina, ending in Italy at a resevoir whose name escapes me. Vito, Walter, Pat, Piera and I left Pontresina late in the afternoon under light rain showers. We reached the hut before dark and Vito, Walter and I were up early the next day with the throngs of others and headed to the Biancograt ridge. The weather was marginal (which of course made it even more beautiful) and we were alone except one other party. On the snow ridge the wind was howling, the snow blowing. Higher up, the rock, which wasn't covered in verglas or snow, was for the most part excellent. We dropped off the ridge after the numerous ups and downs of passing small gendarmes and descended towards the Marco e Rosa hut. From the hut we descended a steepish couloir and gained a flatter glacier to get to the Marinelli hut. From this hut we hit the trail and high-tailed it to Pat and Piera who had expected us a few hours ealier.