Qungmoganze Additions and Corrections

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BigLee - Jan 8, 2007 3:58 pm - Voted 10/10

Climbing History

Came across the following while researching the Western Nyanchen Tanglha...

First ascent of the peak - 7th October 1996, Chinese-Korean expedition via south ridge (seven climbers reached the summit).
Second Ascent - 17th May 1997, Japanese exedition via south ridge.
Third Ascent - 15th August 1999, Japanese expedition via south ridge.
Fourth Ascent - 16th October 2005, Christian Haas, solo via south ridge, alpine style. Climbed from base camp without making a bivi. Left at 6.30am, summited 6pm, back at BC 10.30pm

South ridge 1000m from saddle, average angle 40-45 degrees, with steepest section 50-55 degrees. Moderately angled towards top.

Original ascensionists (and possibly all first three expeditions) climbed to crest of ridge from the East except Christian Haas who climbed from West. Total four known expeditions who have summited. Only Haas climbed Alpine style. Lindsay Griffin wrote this info so definately fact. Lee


Corax - Jan 8, 2007 4:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Climbing History

Thanks for the info. I have added it to the main page.


BigLee - Jan 13, 2007 4:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Climbing History

Bit more info...
Christian Haas and Gerhard Gridl also climbed Qungmoganze's West South West Summit (6116m, GPS) in October 2005 before Haas soloed the main peak.
British pair Huw Davies and John Town attempted to climb the mountain from the West side in late July/August 1997 but only reached 5900m. Weather was unsettled throughout the climb.
This peak seems to be commonly called Qungmo Kangri and Qungmo Ganker by the way.

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